924Board.org

fredrikl · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 73

Hi,

My '82 924 is suffering from uneven rear brakes, the left hand side is weaker on both travel brake and hand brake.

I would like to remove the brake drum to gain access to the mechanism - how can this be done most easily? I understand from the service manual that the drums are fixed by a huge torque and that a special tool may be necessary. Does anyone have any hints?

BR
Fredrik

'82 924 Indischrot.
'90 Audi 100 Gletschermet.

924RACR · Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 10:55 pm Post subject:

Yes, the 36mm nut that holds the drums on is set to a very high torque, somewhere above 200 ft-lb as I recall. You'll want a very good impact gun or 3/4" drive socket, breaker bar, and jack handle on the breaker bar to get them loose. First time's always the hardest.
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924guy · Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 11:18 pm Post subject:

get the vw axel nut tool , then beat it with at least a 10 pound sledge hammer (not the car, the tool, though before your done you may want to beat the car as well..) .. i went through three 1/2 " drive long breaker bars the last time i did one of those, i almost ran out of sears stores to "exchange" them at after they bent on me..with that axel nut tool, it popped off rather quickly in comparison..

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78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
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augidog · Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 1360 Location: New Jersey

My924gtc · Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 1362 Location: 248

You guys have a better source for this tool?

http://performanceproducts.com/ProductPage.aspx?ProductName=Axle+Nut+Remover&productid=100832&producttype=20

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

You should be able to get a number of different style 36mm axle nut tools from ANY VW BUG auto parts specialty store.

Check your local phone book. I am sure that you will find several.

Smoothie · Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:14 am Post subject:

$46.99 (+ $3.01 of other stuff to get the free shipping within the contiguous US) gets you 32 lbs. of 3/4" drive metric socket tools that includes the 36mm size -
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5494

They're way beefier than they are pretty - the breaker bar and ratchet wrench are 1.5' long. The breaker bar's 19.5mm thick, ratchet is 22mm thick along the thinest section of the handle and the extensions measure at 24mm thick, though I'm sure I'm more impressed with this than anyone...
Here's the $47 socket set being measured by the dollar store tape measure - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=/7a86&.dnm=f6cb.jpg&.src=ph
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

Before you go to the trouble of knocking off the axle nuts, did you try inspecting the brake shoes, and adjusting the brake shoe clearance through the access holes on the back sides of the brake drums?

There are holes in the metal splash plate so you can inspect the wear on the brake pads, and adjust the front and rear shoes of both sides.

Min · Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:48 am Post subject:

one time when we were removing those nuts, we got angry and just welded a square piece of steel to a long pipe, this worked to remove them and put them back on a couple times, but after we snapped the end of the peice of steel off, we just said .. what else are we gunna use this large socket for? .. and welded it to the end of the pipe ... works great now

....

Min

Magnus K · Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:41 pm Post subject:

Lucky for me, the garage where I rent space for my 924 has some tool powered by compressed air. Don't know what this tool is called in English but looks like a power drill. Works great for removing stubborn bolts and nuts, it just hammers away at them!

But check out the adjustment first, you should get by with this, I think.
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My924gtc · Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 1362 Location: 248

We call it an Impact Wrench. The only issue with that is getting one that has the guts to remove something like the axel nut will cost you $300. The 1/2" that I have will not undo such torque it just makes a lot of noise.
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fredrikl · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 73

Wow, thanks for all these replies!

My brakes are not of the classic manually adjusted type, but are supposed to be self-adjusting. See Haynes p. 302 under "Self-adjusting rear drum brakes" - I believe this is the type of brakes I have.

Since either the self-adjusting mechanism is jammed/broken or the shoes are worn out I will need to remove the drum to gain access. From all the replies it sounds like I will need to get the special tool. However, I will try with a long lever and a socket first. A mechanic had the drum off a few years ago so maybe it isn't too stuck yet...

BR
Fredrik

manouchehr · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 58

I eventually cracked the nut using a36mm box wrench with one end touching the floor and then lowering the car gently ("gently" being the key word here...). This nut is one of the reasons i'm looking into converting to all disc brakes (they don't use such a nut right?). to tighten is i used the guess-o-meter.

good lukck

ponchojuan · Joined: 20 Jul 2004 Posts: 51 Location: Boston, MA

For years I've used a 1/2 socket. a regular breaker bar. and 4 feet of 2 inch steel plumber pipe.

pop the center hub, , put on the breaker bar and pipe, and then stand (sometimes jump?) on the pipe.

I haven"t lost the battle yet. But I also weight 230 lbs.

Poncho
PS: What ever you do don't go the wrong way: righty tighty, lefty loosey.

numbbers · Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 11:35 am Post subject:

Well, I use a 3/4 inch drive truck socket and breaker bar. I make a long (about four feet) extension out of black 1 1/2 inch plastic plumbing pipe, slip the extension over the breaker bar, and you have plenty of leverage to remove the nut.
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1980 924 Turbo