924Board.org

[doomer77]

I need to replace it, what is the best way of attaching the brand new one?

cheers,
Erik
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[Belgian924t]

search on this forum "rear hatch seal" and you will find some topics.
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'79 931 with Carrera GT look
'86 944 turbo (sold)
'88 944 turbo S (sold)
'85 911 Carrera 3,2 (to be restored)
'80 911 SC "SOLD"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2224272

[doomer77]

ive searched, without any good answers, almost every thread has the words in it. all i want is a one word answer, like glue or strawberry jam for exampel
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[jpab924]

Kind of just holds itself in place. When I replaced mine, you could see the white body glue in the seal. Just pressed the seal in place and that was it.

[doomer77]

ok thanks, but if i have to add extra glue, epoxy is the way to go?
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[D Hook]

It's usually a tight enough fit that you shouldn't need additional adhesive. Additional adhesive will only add to your woes when you need to replace it again. Just push it into place. I had to use a rubber mallet to get mine to go on. No chance of it coming off.

Is the new one a one piece? If so, don't cut it; remove the hatch shocks instead.
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'80 924 n/a SOLD

[Benino]

tip:

here's my advice on installing it.
I agree do not cut it. Remove the shocks.
Figure out where the top center, bottom center and two side centers will be on the car itself and on the new seal. Press those areas on first. and then work your way around from those points, pressing it on. I made the mistake of starting from one point and working my way around the first time and I guess it stretched a bit all the way around and I had way too much excess when I got the my starting point. The second time I did one of these I used the method I described above and it worked perfectly.

In the new seals I've gotten there was more than enough adhesive in them already.

good luck installing yours.
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1980 Porsche 924 N/A USA
1980 Porsche 924 turbo USA
1987 Porsche 944S USA

[kaffine]

If you have to use a glue I would recomend 3M weather strip adheasive. It's normally availble at auto parts stores.
_________________
80 924
80 931

The best desciption of an atom boils down to something unknown is doing we don't know what.
Sir Arthur Eddington

[doomer77]

alrite thanks for the advice, ill tell you how it goes on tuesday when i finally get it
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[AGD931]

I ordered a new hatch seal and the lower additional seal which sits under the hatch and also fits around the hatch pins effectively sealing the hatch from water. I also ordered new door seals l & r. I have not fitted any of these as I want the bodyshop to ensure that all the doors/hatch are adjusted properly after the seals are fitted.

The hatch seal is a one piece item. There is no adhesive on it though there is plenty of it under the original seal on the body. The four seals including tax & delivery to Greece from Germany total 220 Euro. Very reasonable.

944 512 043 00 - Hatch seal

944 512 463 00 - Additional seal

Thanks for the fitting tips Benino
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1981 931 S2
1990 E30 320i Cabrio
1979 Ford Capri Ghia

[Duncan]

I replaced my left door seal with a new one but since then I hear this hissing sound from the upper corner of the door at 100 km/h. I had my door hanging optimized (very evenly spaced seams now and completely flush) but the hissing is still there. Furthermore the door is relatively difficult to close, when no other doors/hatches are open. When the rear hatch is open you can close the door with your little finger.

The new seal is the new style 944 seal. It is much more sturdy than the 924 style seal. However, when driving a late model 924 from 1985, I noticed that there are additional seals on the body in this corner of the door. Browsing through the PET these seem to be very expensive 968 style seals. I really look forward to hearing your experiences with the new door rubber.

[doomer77]

the only thing i can think of is that in some way the seal creates a vaccum inside the car that gives resistance when you are closing the door, cant think of any other way that the hatch and door could be connected..
_________________
Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES

[Duncan]

I think you are right. I just expected it to fit perfectly. In the beginning I could not close the door on the inside without opening the window. Now the seal has aged a little and it has become relatively easy.

Enough of the sticly stuff remains on the body when you remove the old seal.

The new hatch seal just press fits into place. JUst keep pushing and pulling on it to get it right. The problem is that the seal tries to 'cut the corners' and then it seems to long. Only when you really take the efford to push it all the way into the four sharp corners it will fit. So do not be tempted to cut it and shorten it!

When my new seal was just installed I first didnt dare to close the hatch
because of the force on the hatch. I left it overnight with the hatch just
'leaning' on the seal ( this was in a very save neighbourhood).