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Llamaguy · Joined: 02 Jul 2003 Posts: 711 Location: Indiana

I think the oil cooler is a 150k mile deal, isn't it?
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1987 924S Guards Red
1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport

Paul · Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:20 pm Post subject:

Tim I'll bet if you try to look at the belts yourself, that it will take at least 5 posts just to explain how to remove and reinstall the distributor cap.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

dagabba · Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 73 Location: UK

Looks very nice Timmy, I love Fuchs on early 944s. What's the new avatar?

Gab

Modoc · Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 5:28 am Post subject:

hey tim, the oil cooler, dont worry about it, just watch your coolant for oil to show up and if it does, get it fixed ASAP just every time you pull into the gas station check your coolant and oil... belive me, my 924s goes through a quart every two to three months... which isnt bad for a 2.5l engine...

as for the fan deal... the fan should kick on once it hits the 3rd white little marker, right before the red... if it doesnt... TURN ON YOUR AC by turning on your ac, you kick on both fans therefore cooling your engine(somthing people are usaly told not to do for an overheating car, it will actualy work with 944's and 924s's
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Proud owner of
'88 924s - Sold
'01 ML430
'97 Honda Civic

timstar92404 · Joined: 22 Sep 2004 Posts: 2075 Location: richmond BC

timstar92404 · Joined: 22 Sep 2004 Posts: 2075 Location: richmond BC

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

When the oil cooler seals go, you could get oil in the coolant (just like when the head gasket goes...), and you will get coolant in the oil.

Some people will argue that the coolant never goes in the oil, after all, how could it? The oil pressure is always higher than the coolant pressure when the engine is running, right? The key phrase that kills that theory is "WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING". When you shut the engine off warm, internal temperatures rise for a time, before failling as the engine cools. The coolant temperature rises, and the pressure could be 16psi or more, with the oil pressure being zero.

A reliable indicator of leaking oil cooler seals between the coolant and motor oil is disappearing coolant, and rising motor oil level. An inconclusive and unreliable indicator is brown oil scum in the expansion tank (could be blown headgasket).

The oil cooler seals can also leak from the cooler housing to the outside of the block. Using the wrong type of coolant (the inexpensive stuff that contains phosphates) will allow the phosphates to chemically attack the alloys in the engine and cooling system and destroy the sealing and cooling system surfaces, creating permanent leaks that signal the end of the useful life of the engine block and or components (such as the engine block to cylinder head mating surface, and the oil cooler housing).

I don't think you need to replace the oil cooler seals every 3 years or 30K miles like the front of engine service. Every second, or third front of engine service would probably be fine, after the initial time that you replace the oil cooler seals immediately after you acquire a car, and start the clock on the service parts for the front of engine service. And doing the oil cooler seal replacement service is not difficult or tricky. The KEY is to use the OPRV passage alignment tool. Virtually all of the people who have reported a problem with oil pressure or leaks after replacing the oil cooler seals admit that they did not use the tool, and did not follow the Porsche Factory Instructions for replacing the early oil cooler housings, and setting the seal stack heights.