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Rear ride-height adjustment
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:32 pm    Post subject: Rear ride-height adjustment Reply with quote

I read Jim Pasha's article on 924 handling, which basically says the car needs to be level on all four corners. So I went out and measured up mine and I find the rear is 30 mm too high!

I read up how to do the adjustment in the Haynes manual and it's just total gibberish. Old 'Spooky' must've been on the moonshine when he wrote that one!

I think I understand how to adjust the eccentric to change the ride-height, but how do I know when it's right? Do I need to put the car on the ground, find out it's 5 mm out one side, put it back on the stands, re-adjust it, etc, etc...? Or is there some way of gauging the effect with the rear off the ground? Surely, you can't do the adjustment with the weight of the car on the wheels...?

Also what what torque is required on the adjustor bolt(s)? The Haynes manual is particularly confusing on the point...
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you link to the article you are referring to? I think my car is a bit on the tall side.

I would think you could jack it up make the adjust and drop it back down one corner at a time. Will take a ferw repetitions though.
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://website.lineone.net/~dmsims/944t/SuspensionPreparation.htm
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually measure the height of the wheel relative to the ground once the car's on jackstands, then move the wheel up or down the required amount.

Tape measure works great.

Torque on the bolts - what we call Gut-en-tite. They're big, could probably handle 80 ft-lbs, wouldn't want less than 50 IMO. Lemme see if I can find a spec...

OK, the way I read the tech specs, "adjusting lever to spring strut" M16x1.5 should be 180 ft lbs. HTH
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found lowering the rear was one of those things that made perfect sense once I did it. It is really hard to read a decription of what to do, its easier to get in there and start pulling the wrenches to figure it out.
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's just what I'll do, then!
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did mine I lowered to the max amount, and placed a level in the door frame. It was barely level at that point.

You should also be aware that the suspension need to settle in before you decide you are done (ie, jump up and down on the rear bumper once the car is off stands).
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bcblase  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had my track alignment done, I asked the shop to lower the rear all the way, and car is pretty level on all 4 corners now. I could not get the ride height bolts to budge, so I let the shop mess with it. They didn't even charge me since I was getting the 4-wheel alignment done at the same time. I think I measured the rear at about 25 mm lower.

BC
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bcblase wrote:
I think I measured the rear at about 25 mm lower.


According to Clark's, one inch is the max via that bolt, so yours must have been all the way up.
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the eccentric bolts off (they put up quite a fight! )

The eccentric bolt seeems to be offset by 7 mm, so that means 14 mm adjustment range at the bolt. But, this is about 1/3 of the way from the torsion bar to the wheel hub. So a 14 mm range at the bolt ought to give 42 mm (3 × 14 mm) of height adjustment...

My problem now is that I don't have anything to turn the bolts to make the adjustment. They have 38 mm heads (1 1/2"!) and I don't have a spanner/wrench that big.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to remember buying a giant 36 mm wrench for this job. Are you sure about the measurement?
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Monster Crescent.
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Monster Crescent? Is he a relative, Rasta?

I have a 36 mm socket for doing the rear hub nuts and that was too small. No room in there for it anyway.

In the end I found a giant pair of plumber's pliers whose jaws opened out wide enough.

So, the adjustment is now as low as it will go and the back is only about 10 mm higher than the front. I'll run with that to see how it goes.

Did any of you guys have to reset the camber after lowering the rear?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.

I'm also surprised you didn't get the 36mm to fit - never seen any other size there. Perhaps dirt in the way??
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike924 wrote:
Did any of you guys have to reset the camber after lowering the rear?

Yes, all 3 (camber, height, and toe) are interrelated, so when one is changed, the other two should be checked.

And yes, my height adjuster measures just a hair over 36mm, so it could be that some 36mm wrenches fit while others just barely don't. -But my largest combo wrench is 32mm, so I probably used a large adjustable wrench on it.

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