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loss of power, but kept running weakly

 
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yearningforlearning  



Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 14
Location: Vernal, Utah

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:15 am    Post subject: loss of power, but kept running weakly Reply with quote

Me and a buddy took my 924 for a drive the other day. the first 5 minutes were fine. No problems weird sounds or anything. then we get far enough out of town and I guess my car didn't feel like doing much. It seemed to just lose its power. We'd be flooring it in first gear and it wouldn't go over 1500rpm and later 1000rpm. I could get out and jog faster. It seemed to be running a bit rough by the end. I did try having him push the gas down while I raised the AFM by hand. That got it's rpms going up, then it backfired. ?
I'm at a loss as to why it just became so weak so quickly. We had driven it a week before and got to 70 fine. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the dizzy come loose, and go retard on ya? Hate when that happens!
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above - dizzy slipped or mech advacne knackered
Vac leak?
Fuel filter blocked?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plugs fouling? Sure you're running on all four?
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

'Sure you're running on all four?'

Does that mean, he's a bit odd, like, a brick short of a full load? Snort~!
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mentioned this in another post reply just recently, but check the electrical system. A non-functional alternator, and resulting dying battery can also cause similar symptoms.
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9XX Girl!  



Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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Location: Cornish Riviera SW England

PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm... it does sound electrical, don't forget to check your HT leads too.
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yearningforlearning  



Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 14
Location: Vernal, Utah

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks for all the help. I'm looking into all of those. I checked and my dizzy isn't loose. As it turns out, I'm not running on all four. One of my spark plug wires doesn't work and my spark plugs all look black on the ends. Is that from getting too hot from a lean mixture? I'll check the fuel filter too because it did have old gas in it before, but I ran it near empty and put new gas and injector cleaner in it. I took the battery and charged it. It was pretty drained.How do I check the alternator?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fouled plugs are definitely a problem. You need to determine if it's fouling from too rich mixture, leaking injectors, or oil. Too rich mixture is resolved by enleaning the mixture at the fuel distributor, but you shouldn't do this just yet. Leaking fuel injectors is common on CIS injectors due to the inner springs wearing out. Only solution is to replace with good injectors, whether used, cleaned ones or new ($$$$$). Oil fouling could be from bad valve stem seals, worn valve guides, or worn rings (or any combination thereof). If the blackness is dry and sooty, that is a too rich condition. If the blackness is wet and smells like gasoline, that is likely leaking injectors. If the blackness is wet and oily, then it's a sealing problem.

The first thing I would do is replace the plugs, or at least spray them with brake cleaner, scrub them with a wire brush, and then burn off the excess with an open flame (like a lighter/torch).

Regarding plug wires, find out where the fault is: at the cap, at the wire itself, or at the plug. Replace as necessary.

Regarding the fuel filter, a common mistake is to install them backwards. The fuel flow arrow must point TOWARD the windshield. If the new filter is installed backward, the high pressure pump will ruin it, and it must be replaced.

Checking the alternator, best thing to do is take it out and go to your local FLAPS and have them test it. Short of doing that (pardon the pun), start the car and put a volt meter across the battery. With no load (i.e. no electrical items on other than the car running), you should be getting 13.8V or so at the battery. If you're not, the alt isn't charging correctly, but it could be a wiring fault as well as the alt. If you do get 13.8V, slowly start adding electrical load (lights, radio, blower, defrost, etc.) and make sure the alt is able to handle the load. If the voltage drops with add'l items on, rev the motor to 2K; if it doesn't come back up to 13.8V, then the alt isn't charge (but again, could be due to a wiring fault in the harness between the alt and battery). Make sure you have a good ground from the battery to the chassis, from the alt to the engine, and from the engine to the chassis. Also make sure that all of the power leads at the positive battery post are not frayed, corroded, or otherwise suspect.
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yearningforlearning  



Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 14
Location: Vernal, Utah

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The blackness is wet and does smell like gasoline, so I guess injectors. How do I test if they're good? The wire is at fault with the ignition so I'll change that. I looked at my fuel filter and there were particles gathered on the side and brown gas came out. I'm guessing I'll need to drain the old gas completely and fill it with new? The old positive wire to the battery is frayed pretty bad so I'll replace that too. It looks like it just goes behind the engine and that it'll be a big pain to try and do. Any advice? thanks a ton.
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3158
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would check electrical before touching the CIS system.

Check voltage across battery first, as suggested. Use a volt meter.

Check bottom of hood above the positive post of battery for signs of arcing.

Replace the positive cable you said looked bad.

Haynes manual recommends making sure the electrical system is in perfect condition before suspecting anything on the fuel system. That's been my experience also.
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yearningforlearning  



Joined: 19 May 2010
Posts: 14
Location: Vernal, Utah

PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the fuel filter and now it'll at least idle. it stumbles though and doesn't get over 500rpm. I'm going to try and change the plugs and wires and see if that will help.
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DOCO  



Joined: 04 Aug 2006
Posts: 1111
Location: Keswick Ontario Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a bad wire cap or plug will also give you a black wet gas smelling plug. replace ingnition leads cap rotor and plugs first
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billson  



Joined: 10 Sep 2006
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem a while ago. Turned out to be the coil. Replaced that and all was well.

If coil is weak = weak spark = black, fouled plugs = no power and petrol smell on plugs
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yearningforlearning  



Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: Vernal, Utah

PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks for all the feedback and help. Well, turns out the ignition coil isn't giving it the spark needed, so I'll be getting one of those soon enough. at least one more problem is solved.
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