Show full size 924Board.org
Discussion Forum of 924.org
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
 Technical FAQ924 FAQ (Technical)   Technical924 Technical Section   Jump to 924.org924.org   Jump to PCA 924 Registry924 Registry

how to remove the transaxle/transmission?
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    924Board.org Forum Index -> General Discussions
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:17 am    Post subject: how to remove the transaxle/transmission? Reply with quote

I would really like to tell the guy who designed these cars just what I think of how they mounted the dang gas tanks where you have to take the rear end of the car and back window and interior a part just to get a gas tank out it will take me 5 minutes to weld the tank and a couple days to disassemble an disassemble the car .... ok that's enough venting


1) to remove the transaxle/transmission (what ever you call it) the front looks like you can unbolt that bell housing and slide it back just a bit to drop it down and out , am I correct in that assumption?

2) the book only says to remove the axle shafts form the transmission (what I am calling a transaxle) but no real explanation exactly how to do it so the questions are:
2A) do I just unbolt that spaced ring where they meet the transaxle or is there a shaft inside there?
2B) question if the tires are currently on wood blocks can I leave them or do I need to suspend the and remove the tires to take the shafts lose for the transaxle?

pictures would help in the explanation if possible.
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the tech section of this board:

Go to the underside of the car. The exhaust system must be removed. I usually unbolt the system at the engine exhaust manifold flange and then drop the entire system. If you like, you can break the manifold in the middle at the center flange and take it out in two pieces. Note that there are two hangers on the driveshaft. At this time, loosen the U-bolts that hold these hangers, but do not remove them.

Next, go to the inside of the car, pull back the shifter boot, and remove the clip that holds the knob in place. Remove the knob. Pull the circlip that holds the shifter rod on the shift lever, then remove the rod. The next step is to separate the foam at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and remove the bolts holding the shifter lever base. Remove the shift lever.

Now you can go to the rear of the car and start removing the transaxle. Disconnect the reverse switch wiring., then the electronic speed sensor - if your car is so equipped. Using a new allen socket or a 12-point socket in very good condition, loosen and remove the CV-joint bolts from the transaxle end of the axleshafts.

Disconnect the shift rod from the cup receptacle on the transaxle cross-shaft. This has a safety wire on the bolt and should be rewired during the reassembly process, so note the direction of the wire on the bolt and how it is twisted. There is an access panel to the driveshaft adapter. Remove the panel and using a light to illuminate the area, loosen the two allen bolts on the coupling collar. The driveshaft must be rotated to reach both bolts. When loosened, slide the collar back onto the transaxle input shaft.

The next procedure is a bit tricky and must be followed in sequence. Support the transaxle with a jack. The pictures show a built-for-purpose transmission jack with chains to hold the transaxle. Position the jack under the ring-and-pinion area of the transaxle and raise the jack to the point where it takes some pressure off of the transaxle mounts.

Remove the bolts that hold the mount to the floor of the luggage compartment. This is actually a welded member of the chassis. Once the bolts are removed, lower the jack slightly - but not too much. Now remove the bolts from the transaxle bellhousing and the driveshaft adapter. There is not a lot of room behind the transaxle to move it away from the driveshaft. Lower the transaxle slightly to break the bond, then remove the plastic tube that the shift rod passes through at the transaxle bellhousing. As this transaxle was originally designed for a front-wheel-drive car, the shift linkage has to pass through a hole in the bellhousing to reach the shift cross-shaft. The plastic keeps dirt and grunge from getting into the bellhousing area.

The transaxle must come straight down on its way out. The chains on the transaxle jack are to keep the freed transaxle from slipping off of the jack. The transaxle can sometimes hang up on the plastic tube, which will prevent it from being dropped straight down. Some fiddling should allow you to get it free. Once this is done, the transaxle can be dropped down and pulled out from under the car. Do not drop the driveshaft in any of these steps. Lower it gently and let it rest on the torsion-bar tube.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.


Last edited by Paul on Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:25 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks paul I'm going to print that out and go out and give it a try
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/trans-03.htm
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just to tack onto this related subject , just wondering since I put the trans back in there seems to be limited movement of the gear stick to the right, the car still goes into 4th and 5th gear but it feels as though the gait is not symmetrical between 1st and 3rd and then 3rd and 5th, is this normal for the snailshell?
and I can feel some resistance/ scraping, sounds like it is coming from directly underneath the hump where the ash tray would be.
The proper conical pin is inserted at the number 15 point and the bushing are also good there too.
lastly i noticed that i don't have the number 12 leaf spring items
cheers
stu

_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh great worry me about more that can go wrong ....lol


Not that I have any idea at all !!! but in reading somewhere it says when you disconnect the shifter tube you turn it over and move out of the transaxle/transmission is it possible you did not turn the tube back the right direction when you reinstalled it ? (I am thinking there could be a slite bend in the tube to make it fit properly and upside down it rubs but I am just guessing)[/i]
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh great worry me about more that can go wrong ....lol


Not that I have any idea at all !!! but in reading somewhere it says when you disconnect the shifter tube you turn it over and move out of the transaxle/transmission is it possible you did not turn the tube back the right direction when you reinstalled it ? (I am thinking there could be a slite bend in the tube to make it fit properly and upside down it rubs but I am just guessing)[/i]
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well its out finally but the gas tank looks worse then I thought so going to find a replacement
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

removed engine and trans, left the torque tube in place, hanger brackets as well, need some long double jointed alien fingers to reach up there and feel around a bit... lol
Stu
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Stu,

How's part 5 look on your car?
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Paul,
From the look of it, the pivot point doesn't look like it's holding a stationary position, slighty flexing,
not sure how the bearings fits inside the bracket, think somehow when I sloted the guiding rod back into postion I may have dislodged the bearing?
how ridgid is the mounting of the bearing?
cheers
Stu

Just to add, had a closer inspection of the guide tube front bushing, doesn't feel unsusally loose, tried removing the shifter and wiggling the rod with some snub nose pliers on the flat section.
The scraping i can hear at the front is the shift rod coming into contact with the heat shielding, i removed the centre console and the two rear screws under the ashtray were holding up the back of it.
The scraping at the rear is still a mystery, trying to work out if maybe i moved or removed a brake line mounting bracket above the trans, working on this section of the car is as bad as working on the exhaust manifold.
I think the easiest rout will be to cut out the trans hump, haz anyone cut an access hole in front of the rear seat, i.e about 30cm behind the centre console? Or is where vaughn has his cutout the better location?
Stu
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1690
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Stu - After having done BOTH kinds of tranny back to back (bite your tongue, Rasta ) just a couple of weeks ago, I'd say be VERY careful cutting the floor of the car. If you can drop the tranny out, go that route. It's not that hard. The danger in cutting a hole in the floor of the car is in going right through the brake lines, which are situated exactly where you'd want to be cutting. The PO of our donor car had done just that - and I had driven the car that way without knowing (albeit only briefly)!
_________________
'88 944 Auto - may or may not resurrect
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slam wrote:
I had driven the car that way without knowing (albeit only briefly)!


driving should have been no problem just the stopping part
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
goldhunter_2  



Joined: 10 Jan 2010
Posts: 69
Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl 34953

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I found a couple metal gas tanks up north but couldn't get anyone willing to ship them well unless I wanted to pay $85 a hour for them to drive to the ups store to drop them off that is so in a last attempt I went on a airboat forum I regularly use and asked a guy that had some Porsche's listed for sale in north Florida if he happens to have a gas tank ....... found out he parts out Porsche's and had a tank , he was a little higher price but only a 7 hour round trip to get it so off I went

gas tank went in pretty easy but had to wait until yesterday afternoon to borrow my neighbors floor jack to get transaxle in , my son worked the jack and I balanced and lined it up once the dust tube was in the hole it went right in ............. but had a problem the top passenger side bolt form the transaxle to the bell-house would not go in or seat last night I final quit as i was getting pissed off with it we started again this morning about 6am ended up pulling the transaxle off again and putting a bottle jack under the passenger side of the forward bell house to twist it just a little then that bolt went right in followed by the other three and then the frame support bracket bolts , put the axles back on filled it with new fluid, put muffler back on reconnected the shifter removed jack stands and drove it down the road I didn't see any parts falling off behind me as I went so I guess it fixed but still need to pull the injectors ....maybe next week not right now

Oh ya that back window comes out a whole lot easier then it goes back in!

guess I will go back to trying to get my 924 fuel problem fix this weekend
_________________
1982 Porsche 924
1984 Porsche 944
97 suburban -- tows everything I trailer
WPB Airboat ----- goes anywhere I point it
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stu, sounds like part 5 is fine.

I also agree that cutting a hole is not a good idea.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    924Board.org Forum Index -> General Discussions All times are GMT + 10 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group