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CIS Pressure test results. WUR won't warm up?
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:58 am    Post subject: CIS Pressure test results. WUR won't warm up? Reply with quote

Doing a CIS test and checking the injector spray pattern today for no reason other than a baseline reading. 1982 931. The car runs well.

FP jumpered. Key out of ignition. Injectors out.(for injector testing only) WUR and AAV disconnected.

System pressure-5.8 bar. (5.8-6.5 spec)
Cold control- 1.8 bar (2-2.4 spec at 68 degrees, ambient temp is 45 degrees)
Hot control pressure-3.6 bar*******
Leakdown after 10 min-2.1 bar
Leakdown after 20 min 2.0 bar

***** This reading is with WUR and AAV re-connected and heat gun on WUR- I couldn't get the WUR to warm up even with key in ignition. Pressure just stayed at cold pressure.
Apparently WUR won't heat up unless the car is actually running? Does it need signal/voltage from ignition?

I will check hot pressure again after I button up the injectors.

KC
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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand your post. Did control pressure increase from 1.8 to 3.6 or not?

The only thing warming up with 12v attached is a bimetal strip inside the unit, unlikely to be detectable externally.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, that was a sh*tty post.

Yes, pressure went up but only with heat applied to the WUR from a heat gun(earlier today because I had the injectors out and couldn't start the car), or with the car running.( which I did an hour ago after putting the car together again)

I guess what I'm trying to ask is that it appears the car need to be running for the WUR to warm up.

Is this correct and why?
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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the resistance of the heating element, sounds like it will be infinity.

When the element is shot, warm up pressures will be noticed until the heat of the engine compartment warms the WUR.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check the WUR plug on the harness for +12v ignition switched.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, makes sense.

I think it also explains something else I was meaning to look at. On cold startup the car comes to a nice high idle, about 1200 for a minute then drops to a rough 800 or so for another 3 or 4 minutes, them it smoothes out and is fine.
Maybe the bimetallic strip isn't getting voltage so it takes 3 or 4 minutes for the car to warm it up, so it's running rich for the first few minutes.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boy do I know this road well. What a road.
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staticsan  



Joined: 19 Jan 2009
Posts: 450
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The AAV also heats up with the same mechanism as the WUR; i.e. an internal heater plus heat from the manifold. That would also affect idle speed.

Wade.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did some more testing.

WUR and AAV had 11.5 V with car off, pumps running. WUR bimetallic strip will heat up with car not running, it just takes a while. The pressure started rising after 3 minutes and topped out after 5min at 3.4 bar.

System pressure 5.8 bar -low end of spec
cold control 1.2 bar-way below spec
warm control-3.4 bar - bottom of spec

So, it appears I have to remove WUR and inspect, yes?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd shim the FPR and get your primary pressure up to spec, and retest. Volume test wouldn't hurt either.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn, your fast.

I forgot to add that spray patterns looked ok, there were no leaky injectors, and all 4 injectors had the same amount in each bottle when done testing. I neglected to actually measure how much gas in how many seconds though.

I'll look up shimming the FPR.

Thanks.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, found the spot to shim and shimmed with shim(washer)

System pressure is 6.1 now, up from 5.8.
Cold and warm control are still the same.

Volume test was good at return line.
I'm also going to check the voltage at pumps, the connections look like crap.

Now what to do about low control values?
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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish there was some such thing as a "known good WUR" to test with. . .but there is not.

My philosophy is, if there is any chance the WUR is factory installed and your pressures are off, I would assume the WUR is bad and refurbish it.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kcoyle wrote:
Cold and warm control are still the same.

A clue.

Have a look at this thread:
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=35734

And particularly the fourth post. To wit:
ideola wrote:
If control pressure did not rise properly, check for restriction in the return line. Also measure the supply voltage to the heater of the control pressure regulator (a.k.a. WUR). It should be at least 11.5 volts power supply. If return line is clear and the voltage checks out OK, replace the control pressure regulator (a.k.a. WUR).


This is cited word for word from the Probst book, which I highly recommend if you don't already have it.
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^Genius!


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