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Another Hatch Reseal

 
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brealytrent  



Joined: 28 Dec 2008
Posts: 414
Location: Goldsboro, NC
PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:35 am    Post subject: Another Hatch Reseal Reply with quote
My hatch has been leaky since I got it. I did a temporary fix by putting a couple layers of electrical tape over the separated part, but it went bad after three years and I finally decided to attempt to fix it.

Step One: Remove Hatch!





Step Two: Remove trim to gain access to where the glass actually bonds to the frame. Remove all loose sealer from the seam and clean, with a final cleaning with rubbing alcohol. (this pic is midway through the process)





Step three: Fill said seam with 3M Window-Weld and clamp down if needed to the frame to make good contact between glass and frame.





OPTIONAL: While you wait for the adhesive to harden, you may want to replace your ratty old hatch seal, such as this one:





OPTIONAL: You can also fix the bit of rust from the gap between the top part of the hatch and the body, since the body guys who repainted your car were too lazy to remove the four bolts for the hatch. Before:



And After:




Step Four: Reinstall Hatch and use to your hearts content!



WARNING: The repair stated above will only last three days or roughly 5 openings!











Step Five: Repeat, starting with step one
OPTION: Buy replacement hatch with no prior history of separating (Recommended)
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada
PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Should go in the How-to section. It's a viable alternative to Rasta's approach.
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brealytrent  



Joined: 28 Dec 2008
Posts: 414
Location: Goldsboro, NC
PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
!tom wrote:
Should go in the How-to section. It's a viable alternative to Rasta's approach.


This thread was designed as a compliment to Rasta's, as the likely outcome is going to be the same as his. I thought it might get a few more views here in the general section. My thoughts are if your hatch is screwed-up, there's almost no easy way of fixing it, and this was by far not easy. Removing every last bit of dirt and old adhesive still led to the hatch going back to its old ways, even with the proper materials. It cured for 48 hours before mounting, and 3M's website says it should take 2 hours. I would complain to 3M, but I'm guessing this stuff isn't made for the amount tension and torsion it faces.
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McGyver  



Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Posts: 354
Location: Jelenia Gora - Poland
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I recommended using silicone seal glue for aquariums in black color I Fix my hatch some time ago in same way but using that silicone and all is fine. It's flexible so should work much better And that 2$@#$@# frame... never sticks well... but that idea with straps to hold it in place... brilliant
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Kens_74_911s  



Joined: 01 Mar 2011
Posts: 529
Location: Southern Pines , North Carolina USA
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
McGyver wrote:
I recommended using silicone seal glue for aquariums in black color I Fix my hatch some time ago in same way but using that silicone and all is fine. It's flexible so should work much better And that 2$@#$@# frame... never sticks well... but that idea with straps to hold it in place... brilliant

Ever tried to get non backed crusted window weld off a pulled windshield or tools? Not an easy job - the devils chewing gum. One prep step that would ace it woud be to mask and sandblast both sides. I have 5 hatches. Contemplating making production process out of it, but paused due to how to ship them. Anyone wants a pallet of hatches LMK
K
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