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Driveshaft tube removal: automatic transmission
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Bryan M  



Joined: 19 Jan 2011
Posts: 37
Location: Tampa

PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a pilot bearing in there. I centered it with a standard centering tool. It just seems like if the offset is different from a 914 to a 924 disc it could make the difference.
I'm not 100% sure if has been done on an early 924. I thought I had seen references to it, but all I've been able to find with pictures is on 944's

*edit: I did find a thread where this was done. There is hope. The original part is NLA
http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=37693&view=previous&sid=d834e74331e09950970eaa7c34d32d53
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=38275
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Bryan M  



Joined: 19 Jan 2011
Posts: 37
Location: Tampa

PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!
I found a used 924 disc last night hoping it would be that simple. At least now I have an idea of what's ahead.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got two sitting around here. . .
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Bryan M  



Joined: 19 Jan 2011
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Location: Tampa

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank You. I had already made the purchase.
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Bryan M  



Joined: 19 Jan 2011
Posts: 37
Location: Tampa

PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I attempted having the splined section from another clutch disc welded. It looked great, but it broke as soon as I started the car.

I am now on the hunt for a driveshaft from a std transmission car(or the correct part if it can be found- #477521603)
I will be posting a WTB in the classifieds as well.

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Luvmy80-924  



Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Posts: 56
Location: PA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bryan I still have the Jetta clutch in mine and it still is working fine. But it sounds like maybe your shaft is screwed up now? But if not after two failed tries this is what I did. I made 5 or 6 (don't remember how many bolts where in the damper) equal size "feet" to space the clutch out into the splines. They where just box steel with a piece of flat stock welded to it with a hole in it to bolt to the flywheel. Then I slid the clutch disk (just the center parts with the springs etc. I cut the friction material off) against the "feet" and welded them together. Then took another piece of flat stock and welded that from the feet to the other side of the clutch hub. I was worried about the hub coming apart and the inside just spinning free. I know this is probably a little confusing if you want I can get under the car and snap a picture. But I put about 15,000 miles on it since then and no problems. Hope this helps. Also I read somewhere that a 80 or 86 v6 Bronco II clutch works and by the picture I saw the offset looked right
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Bryan M  



Joined: 19 Jan 2011
Posts: 37
Location: Tampa

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw you post. I didn't really understand it before but I think I see what you did. You eliminated the pressure plate altogether? I like the idea. A little concerned about the rattle though- not for any other reason than it would annoy me. I am building this car for my 17 year old daughter.

To expand on your idea; What do you think of this? If I use the steel outer portion of the broken damper(that bolts to the flywheel). I could have a sheet of steel cut and welded to it, then remove the friction plate from the clutch and rivet (or bolt) the clutch hub to the sheet of steel(obviously making provisions in the sheet of steel to attach the hub- i.e. a hole in the center(like a doughnut)
I do have a few leads on the correct part btw. Supposedly 40+ in Russia and Ukraine and 5 in Brazil. I should know for sure if this is accurate in the morning.
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Luvmy80-924  



Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Posts: 56
Location: PA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It only rattles a little when you shut it off, its fine at idle and driving, but it does rattle when you shut it off. Yeah your idea sounds good but i'm not sure that you will be getting around the rattle that way either. The rattle is the center hub banging off the springs and outer hub and can get loud every now and again. I would be interested in the original part if it's cheap. I know from the factory they were $1200+
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