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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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 Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 6:18 am Post subject: Not good with new rear wheel bearings |
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| Hi. Last week i found out that the rear wheel bearings was bad. The both rear wheels was loose, precisly as the bearing would be bad. Now i have changed but it still is not good. What to do? I haved try different drums, different wheels, different axels and the castle nut is well tighten. I have also tryed another wheel bearings.. So the first rear wheel bearings was not bad at all, somthing else is wrong. On both sides. But what?? |
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larchie
Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 8:24 am Post subject: |
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If the worn bearings diagnosis was based on hearing clicking or thumping, it might well be the CV joints -- especially if noticeable on turns or on acceleration and braking. I would imagine it's fairly rare that both CVs would wear out at exactly the same time, so if it's the CVs the sound must have been heard for quite a while.
Worn bearings are likely when the car is lifted and the wheels can be forced to move when pushed and pulled at opposite arcs of the wheel and/or if, when driving, the sounds are more or less proportional to the driving speed.
Last edited by larchie on Fri May 16, 2014 8:25 am; edited 1 time in total |
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jason c
Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 8:25 am Post subject: |
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How much play is there? How much torque are you using?
If you have them torqued correctly, you have the correct wheel bearings and parts in, you will need to check the surface where the bearings sit and the dimensions of the shaft for proper spec. |
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daniel
Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 687
Location: Sydney, Australia
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Have you checked the suspension? Are the 3 bolts that adjust the suspension geometry tight?
How the the bearings fit in the housing? you should have to press/hammer them in place.
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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| larchie wrote: | If the worn bearings diagnosis was based on hearing clicking or thumping, it might well be the CV joints -- especially if noticeable on turns or on acceleration and braking. I would imagine it's fairly rare that both CVs would wear out at exactly the same time, so if it's the CVs the sound must have been heard for quite a while.
Worn bearings are likely when the car is lifted and the wheels can be forced to move when pushed and pulled at opposite arcs of the wheel and/or if, when driving, the sounds are more or less proportional to the driving speed. |
It is based on to feel on the wheel. I have no interior in the car so it is hard to hear sounds. |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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| jason c wrote: | How much play is there? How much torque are you using?
If you have them torqued correctly, you have the correct wheel bearings and parts in, you will need to check the surface where the bearings sit and the dimensions of the shaft for proper spec. |
Diffucult to explain how much pmay it is, i can upload a video tonight. But it is to much to live with. Th caslte nut is very hard torqued. I am using a machine and also a 50cm long shaft with the right socket and i am standing on the shaft with my 100kg. The wheel spinns on the ground..
Last edited by RPM2006 on Fri May 16, 2014 3:20 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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| daniel wrote: | Have you checked the suspension? Are the 3 bolts that adjust the suspension geometry tight?
How the the bearings fit in the housing? you should have to press/hammer them in place. |
I can check them. But if i have the handbrake in the play is gone. The inner bearing i must press in, but the outer ones i can push in and take out with my hands, on both sides. No tools needed for the outer ones. |
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jason c
Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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| RPM2006 wrote: | | jason c wrote: | How much play is there? How much torque are you using?
If you have them torqued correctly, you have the correct wheel bearings and parts in, you will need to check the surface where the bearings sit and the dimensions of the shaft for proper spec. |
Diffucult to explain how much pmay it is, i can upload a video tonight. But it is to much to live with. Th caslte nut is very hard torqued. I am using a machine and also a 50cm long shaft with the right socket and i am standing on the shaft with my 100kg. The wheel spinns on the ground.. |
The nut should be torqued between 217-289 ft lb. I torque my 951 track car ones to 450. The bearings will be loose without proper torque.
Are the bearings in the proper orientation? All pieces in and in the correct order? How much play between the bearings and the control arm?
Take a look at the PET or repair manual to make sure all is correct. |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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| jason c wrote: | | RPM2006 wrote: | | jason c wrote: | How much play is there? How much torque are you using?
If you have them torqued correctly, you have the correct wheel bearings and parts in, you will need to check the surface where the bearings sit and the dimensions of the shaft for proper spec. |
Diffucult to explain how much pmay it is, i can upload a video tonight. But it is to much to live with. Th caslte nut is very hard torqued. I am using a machine and also a 50cm long shaft with the right socket and i am standing on the shaft with my 100kg. The wheel spinns on the ground.. |
The nut should be torqued between 217-289 ft lb. I torque my 951 track car ones to 450. The bearings will be loose without proper torque.
Are the bearings in the proper orientation? All pieces in and in the correct order? How much play between the bearings and the control arm?
Take a look at the PET or repair manual to make sure all is correct. |
The inner and outer bearing is in correct place. In the workshop manual there is a picture on that the outer bearing has two different sides, my one is exacly the same on both sides. The snap ring is correcly mounted. Also the spacer rings. The inner bearing must i punch in and out but the outer bearing i can put in by hand and also take out by hand without tools. It is mayby here the problwm is? How to fix? On my another 924 is it the same, no tools on the outer one. |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 3:45 am Post subject: |
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| The problem is MAYBY solved.. The new snaprings is thinner then original. Bur again, it is mayby the problem. |
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jason c
Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi
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| Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 4:28 am Post subject: |
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| RPM2006 wrote: | | The problem is MAYBY solved.. The new snaprings is thinner then original. Bur again, it is mayby the problem. |
Probably not. Everything gets clamped together, the difference in thickness Will be taken up when the castle nut is tightened. Can you post detailed pics of the parts and how you have them laid out. Do you have the flange on the outer bearing facing out? Are you running out of thread on the shaft when tightening the nut? |
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:56 am Post subject: |
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| jason c wrote: | | RPM2006 wrote: | | The problem is MAYBY solved.. The new snaprings is thinner then original. Bur again, it is mayby the problem. |
Probably not. Everything gets clamped together, the difference in thickness Will be taken up when the castle nut is tightened. Can you post detailed pics of the parts and how you have them laid out. Do you have the flange on the outer bearing facing out? Are you running out of thread on the shaft when tightening the nut? |
This is made with parts from an another 924 i have that are under assembling. I have looked at another pictures and it seems like i have put the inner spacer wrong??
Can someone show me what is meen with "flanged bearing"? I cant find any differenses on mine outer bearing?
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jason c
Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi
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| Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:56 am Post subject: |
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| I can't tell much from the pic on my phone. Have you looked at a parts diagram to make sure you have all the pieces and they are all in the proper places or are you just putting it together the way it came apart? The ball bearing goes on the inside, the roller bearing on the outside. By flanged bearing I meant one side has a small lip on the side. The lip faces out. Have you double checked part numbers to make sure they are correct for your car? |
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Rasta Monsta
Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW
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| Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 1:56 am Post subject: |
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| jason c wrote: | | Have you looked at a parts diagram |
 
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Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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RPM2006
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 16
Location: Sweden, Stockholm
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| Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 6:29 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks to your all that are helping me. I am almost giving up now. But i have noticed that if i turn the wheels, the play sometimes are gone. It is on some specials places it is play. Mayby the spacers not are OK? |
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