| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
ideola

Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI
|
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:05 am Post subject: How to remove lower alternator mount bushing??? |
|
|
How does this thing come off? I got the nut and bracket off, but I can't get the old one out of the block. I'm afraid to clamp on the threads that are sticking out for fear I'll ruin them and not be able to get the old one out and then really be stuck.
Also, I'm really peeved...I was installing my new water pump. I was even using my new torque wrench so I could apply the proper torque to everything. Went to put the water pump pulley back on, torquing it to the Haynes-specified 14 ft-lbs. One of the bolts stripped the thread right out of the pulley mount on the new water pump. Now I gotta wait another frigging week to get a replacement. GRRRRR!  _________________ erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
|
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
Removing it will likely destroy it, but jam 2 nuts on the exposed thread, then use a wrench on the lower one, or use a pair of pliers on the rubber part.
Maybe you could thread 3 bolts through the back of the water pump pulley mount then use nuts and washers to hold the pulley. I've never tried this so make sure the bolts will clear everything. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
augidog

Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 1360 Location: New Jersey
|
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 12:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I used a channel lock on the lower half against the block.
Mine was ruined already but there is a metal disk that holds the bolt in the rubber you can grab on to if you squeeze hard enough.
Be carefull don't "Puck it up"  _________________ 1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
|
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Most torque wrenches are not very accurate through their entire rated range. If you read the manufacturer's specs, you will probably find that the manufacturer states that the accuracy is like plus or minus 5% between 60%-80% of capacity.
So most torque wrenches are not even close to accurate at the ends of their usable ranges.
And that is why I have three torque wrenches (pointer type 3/8" 0-600 inch pounds, click type 3/8" 10-75lbs and click type 1/2" 20-150ftlbs) and would like to have at least five.
You just got that torque wrench, right?
You went for the one that had the highest/widest range, because this was going to be your first, and only torque wrench for a while, right?
Tell, me... What is the spacing between the markings on the adjusting mechanism, and what is the maximum capacity, and the range?
Was/Is the 14lbs that you used right at the bottom (say the bottom is 10lbs and the maximum is 100lbs)?
Are the adjustment markings 1lb or 2lbs or 2.5lbs or 5lbs apart?
Is this a $100 or more torque wrench with a calibration sheet, or the Harbor Freight $20 special without any calibration papers?
Odds are, either the bolt you were tightening was already damaged, or the torque wrench you got is not very accurate in the range you were using it. My money is on poor calibration and no accuracy at the range you were using it.
There are no good cheap click torque wrenches. The pointer type look cheap, but they are more accurate at lower torque readings. At 14ftlbs I use the pointer torque wrench. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9114 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 12:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
At anything below 30 I use my hand.
You may be best off putting a helicoil in that pump... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|