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tj924

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Posts: 957 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 2:09 pm Post subject: New radiator cap |
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Picked up a new radiator cap today for about $8.00. Not a genuine one but after reading the Haynes I thought a 16psi cap would do the trick. Fits on perfectly but haven't started the car since putting it on.
Does 16psi sound OK. I can pick up the same size in a 13psi but while that is within spec (book says it should open between 12.something & 16.something) I thought the high-end may be better. _________________ TJ
Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual |
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brit vw boy

Joined: 18 Feb 2005 Posts: 59 Location: oxford, england
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 6:51 pm Post subject: Re: New radiator cap |
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| tj924 wrote: | Picked up a new radiator cap today for about $8.00. Not a genuine one but after reading the Haynes I thought a 16psi cap would do the trick. Fits on perfectly but haven't started the car since putting it on.
Does 16psi sound OK. I can pick up the same size in a 13psi but while that is within spec (book says it should open between 12.something & 16.something) I thought the high-end may be better. |
I just picked up the £4.99 cap which the guy in the spares shop said would fit. Niave, but i didnt check the rating.....
Works a treat tho.  _________________ 1959 vw type 2
1986 Porsche 924 S
1981 porsche 924 fh lux - FOR SALE |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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TJ, a higher pressure cap raises the boiling point of the coolant which is a good thing.
The downside is that all of the gaskets and hoses will now be subjected to higher pressures (3 pounds per square inch of surface area, assuming you had 13 psi before). |
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tj924

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Posts: 957 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Paul wrote: | | ...a higher pressure cap raises the boiling point of the coolant which is a good thing |
Ah, of course it would. Basic, high school taught, scientific principle that. Who'd have thunk high school science would come in useful!
| Paul wrote: | | The downside is that all of the gaskets and hoses will now be subjected to higher pressures (3 pounds per square inch of surface area, assuming you had 13 psi before). |
My previous cap is a genuine one (everything on it is written in German no less) & doesn't have the pressure on it which is why I couldn't match it up with a non-genuine. In chapter 2 of the Haynes it says "Pump tester must indicate 0.9 to 1.15 bar (12.8 to 16.4 psi) on dial when high pressure valve opens" which is why I went with the 16 psi one. The 13 psi one would also meet the specs. _________________ TJ
Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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| If it fits and doesn't leak, it will be fine. It only builds up that much pressure when the system has been overfilled or the motor is overheating. |
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tj924

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Posts: 957 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Paul wrote: | | If it fits and doesn't leak, it will be fine. |
So just start her up, let her warm up & see if there is any steam coming out? _________________ TJ
Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 7:43 am Post subject: |
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Yes, I would bleed it at the same time.
From a cold motor, the level in the tank near max, and the cap on tight, just loosen or remove the bleeder plug and start the motor. I usually block the throttle with a screw driver at the throttle body to obtain about 1200 rpms.
Let the car warm up, as soon as the fluid starts flowing from the bleeder smoothly, while leaving the car running, replace the plug.
Then let it warm up until the fans kick in and shut it down. I follow this procedure everytime I take the radiator or coolant (depending which one the car has) cap off. |
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tj924

Joined: 15 Jul 2004 Posts: 957 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Paul, that makes much more sense than the Haynes. The way I read it, Haynes indicates to bleed the system with the rad cap off as well. When I did it your way, coolant spat out of the hole for a few minutes, then started running out instead of spitting. Replaced the bleeder plug & ran for a few more minutes until the fan came on (temp guage read about 1/2 way). Rad cap & surrounding area still cold to the touch so definitely no leaks. _________________ TJ
Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to hear, good work!
As long as your coolant level when the car is cold is above the minimum mark, you're good to go. |
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