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924 questions?

 
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onebadcoupe  



Joined: 15 Mar 2005
Posts: 17
Location: Pickerington OH

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:01 am    Post subject: 924 questions? Reply with quote

Hello All, I just purchased my first Porsche and have some questions. It’s a 1981 924 that has some issues.
1) It had a problem with rust in the tank, the previous owner drained it and put an extra inline fuel filter on it but I think I want to replace it or pull it and have it flushed and sealed? Any thoughts. Is this a common problem?
2) The car is tough to start. It starts by the 4th try every time but runs weak. Cold start valve?
3) I was also told the front cylinder has low compression. I have not check it yet.
4) The defroster does not work and there is no heat. Is this vacuum controlled?
5) Need sun visor clips, some sunroof clips, sunroof seal, clutch, & hatch shocks. Any idea where I can buy this stuff and an overhaul kit that will not break the bank?
What I want to end up with is a reliable daily driver that I can take to the autocross track 4 or 5 times a year. I would like to boost the power to between 135 to 150 HP. My thoughts are to rebuild the engine, go through the suspension / brakes and go through the fuel system. I will keep it close to stock and will add modifications were I can get a good return on the investment. All thoughts, ideas and suggestions will be greatly appraised.
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maireeka  



Joined: 29 Aug 2004
Posts: 299
Location: North Alabama

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a lot of that sunroof junk, I'll get pics of it all so you can look and see if you need any pieces. I'm not sure what they are, they came with the car and I'm just holding on to them.
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1977 Porsche 924 red and READY!
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

id run a compression test before you do anything else..dont want to starting putting money into the other stuff and find out youve a rebuild ahead of you..

advise: if its made of rubber or plastic buy it new if possible.these parts all wear out, and chances are the used one you get will be as bad as or worse as what you have, or fail soon anyhow..

Rust in the tank is a fairly common issue, you can usually get away with just coating it with tank sealant (search the site for better instructions. )

welcome aboard, good luck, and congrats on your aquisition..
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Eric
78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
Y2K Honda Insight
http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
Performance by Pasha
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Problems with rust in the gas tank seem to depend on where you live, and what you fill the tank with (gasalcohol?). Since you are going to drop the tank anyway, I would look for a clean replacement tank, and have it coated before installing it in your car. Used gas tanks are cheap, people throw them away all the time (I have personally thrown away two prefectly good tanks because they have no resale value). You will need to pull the transmission to replace the tank, you you might as well do this aat the same time that you do the clutch (since you have to remove or at least discoonec the transmission to replace the clutch).

The car taking four tries to start could be a number of easy to fix problems. Could be a defective electronic idle stabilizer (my 81 had this problem when I bought it), a blown head gasket (coolant leaks into the cylinders and short out the spark plugs (my 77 had this problem when I bought it, you can confirm thi by pulling the spark plugs and shiffing them, with the blown head gasket you will smell the coolant), or a defective fuel accumulator (fuel system would not hold pressure and require extended cranking multiple tire) to repressurize the fuel system before the engine would start.

Low compression in a/some cylinder/s is also an indicator of a blown head gasket.

The ventilation system is cable operated. Most probably the heater valve has corroded and siezed A new replacement valve should cost between $15-$20, easy to replace. Don't force the control levers, or you could break the ventilation control panel which is expensive.

The sunvisor clips, and sunroof front triangle latch pieces are best bought from the Dealer, as they are usually cheaper there. For the sunroof seal, hatch shocks, and engine overhaul parts try europroducts. For the engine overhaul stuff the best places are EBS (engine builders supply), and ZIMS.

Get a copy of Excellence Magazine, and all of the phone numbers and website address of the suppliers listed above. There are also many authorized Porsche Dealers that advertise in the magazine that list toll-free phone numbers, and offer a discount from PCNA Porsche Cars North America) suggested retail prices. HINT: Genuine Porsche Parts are the only ones that come with a NO BS 2-year warranty, and the price may not be any higher than those sold by the aftermarket suppliers that give you No-Warranty, or a very short warranty.
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