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flosho · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:27 pm Post subject: Wish me luck!

Wish me luck..

5 long hours ahead...
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Smoothie · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:41 pm Post subject:

Hey, good luck there Captain Electron,
but what're ya making?
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endwrench · Joined: 07 Dec 2002 Posts: 1631 Location: Victor, Montana

Man, that's nothin'! You should have been part of the first goup buy!!

See any lables? I remember when I opened the box I thought "there aint a chance in Haites this will ever run!" Hope you got the stim kit too. If not I will loan you mine if you need it.

Todd
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flosho · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 4:07 pm Post subject:

endwrench · Joined: 07 Dec 2002 Posts: 1631 Location: Victor, Montana

I don't know what muticore means either. When I put mine together everyone was using Radio Shack solder. Worked great on mine.

Doing the stim first is great practice. I assume you are using a pencil style iron around 25 watts. This is what I used too and it worked fine but I switched to a 40 watt for later projects. You have to be a little faster but I feel I transmit less heat to the prject with it because you don't take as long to get things flowing. Keep your tip well tinned and clean it with a wet cotten rag once in a while and re-tin. makes a big difference. Good Luck!! It's actually easier than it looks.

Todd

Ozzie · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 4:56 pm Post subject:

Cored solder has the flux in the solder.
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Keaton · Joined: 02 Jan 2006 Posts: 261 Location: 85202

it that a build it yourself ecu? how much were did you get it??

flosho · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 5:57 pm Post subject:

keaton, yeah its the megasquirt DIY ecu.. I got it from diyautotune.com

I guess there are three types of solder... washable, lead free, and no clean? If the radio shack stuff will work, I will go with that, but if that has the flux in the core, then is the liquid flux still needed.. Ah hell its late, I'll just search the megasquirt forums, I'm sure all this as been discussed..

I'll keep ya updated on how this goes!
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924RACR · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:33 am Post subject:

Cool! I sure wish I were doing that... too many other projects getting in the way of getting around to that on my turbo...

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flosho · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:59 pm Post subject:

Endwrench, what does it mean to keep the tip "well tinned"? And I take it if I have teh rosin cored solder, I don't need the liquid flux, correct. Then I just use the rubbing alcohol(like it says in the tutorial thing) and clean the soldered joints after i solder them?

I should have everything I'm gonna start this monday, first the stim kit, to practice and then the megasquirt.
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Smoothie · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 2:20 pm Post subject:

Keaton · Joined: 02 Jan 2006 Posts: 261 Location: 85202

any possable way we could get a picture of some of the tight/close solder joints with a ruler in mm. i've done lots of project that are really tight and would like to see how close things are. how much did every thing cost?

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

Solder can be solid core (used for work on plumbing), or cored (formed with a hollow center which is filled with either acid or rosin flux).

Acid flux is used for joining metals, while rosin core solder is used for making electrical connections. Acid core flux is exactly that, an acid compound that must be removed after soldering, or it will eat the metals it is attached to over time. Acid flux is NEVER USED ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS.

Multicore solder has multiple passages formed in the strand of solder which are filled with flux.

Flux is a cleaning agent used to prepare the surfaces to be joined with solder for proper adhesion of the solder.

The primary make up of solder is lead or silver, and tin. Silver solder is wroked at higher temperatures, and MUCH HARDER TO WORK WITH FOR BEGINNERS. Lead based solder melts at a lower temperature, is easier to work with, and is being phased out of most solders because of Federal Environmental Laws. Lead can cause birth defects, and mental retardation if ingested or breathed.

Flux remover is used to remove the leftover flux mess after all soldering is done to stop any future chemical reactions, and allow you to inspect your work, to detect any solder defects (such as incomplete solder connections or solder bridges (unwanted, unintentional solder connections). The older flux remover formulas are stronger, and do a better job of removing burnt flux than the newer, more environmentally favorable products.

For beginners, I recommend working with conventional 60/40 (lead/tin) solder. It melts at a lower temperature, making it easier to get good reliable solder connections without damaging the circuit board or the components being connected to the circuit board.

A experienced person who works with solder on a regular basis will have more than one soldering iron with different heat ranges. Different obects with different sizes require different amounts of heat to sodler properly. I have been soldering electrical components and metal objects (like slot car chassis) for over 30 years now, and I usually own a 15W, 50W and now 80W irons or soldering stations.

An experienced person can get a good solder connection on most objects without damaging it/them using only a 80W iron. It's difficult, because you could burn the components up very easily if you don;t know what you are doing or are not paying attention. A beginner with only one iron should choose something in the 40W range, knowing that good clean connections may require more heat than the iron can possibly supply. Extended heating times are a result of using too small a heat capacity iron, and may result in heat damaged components.

Better quality equipment will yield better results with less effort. A $5 soldering iron from Radio Shack will not provide the same results as a $100-$200 soldering station from a real electronics store in the hands of a inexperienced person.

You can buy a good used Weller or Hakko soldering station (original cost $100-$200) for $20-$50 on eBay, if you can resist the temptation to rip into the kit with a $5 Radio Shack Special. If you need any advise, email again, and I will sort through the eBay ads for you and let you know what can work for you.

flosho · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:57 pm Post subject:

I took a shot at it this evening, I tried to get a picture of the joints, but my good camera wouldn't focus, so you get a camcorder picture.

How do these look? Just my first trial run here.

Keaton its hard to focus the camera, but I will try to get you close ups of how tight they are.. the db39 connector is the tightest to work on.
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924RACR · Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:07 pm Post subject:

Good points, gohim, thanks... that'll help provide motivation for me to go hunt down a good Weller station... get to use them at work, but really should be getting one of my own... good to know that they're available on ebay...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype