924Board.org

[Benji0301]

[size=18][[size=9]size=18]Hi All,

I finally got my engine re - fitted today after the rebuild and went for the test fire. Starter turned but that was about it.

I checked the fuel system first starting with the fuel filter & i've got fuel there(under pressure as got a shower of unleaded). I then checked I had fuel to the metering head & each banjo to injector was dry. I turned the car over a couple more time and got fuel to there, but still none at injectors. I took out an inector and turning up upright so it was pointing up in the air & tried ignition again (No spray of fuel). Which is leading me to beleive that the injectors are seized if thats possible? Also i'm now unsure if i've got the ingintion wires correct.

1. On top of the coil there is a positive & negative terminals - I have to wires leading to the coil 1 = black & green wires & 1 = purple & goldy coloured, both with a ring terminal. Which wire goes on the +terminal & which goes on the -terminal.

2. Distributor - If engine fires 1 -3 -4 -2 should I put the HT leads on (going clockwise) 1 -3 - 4 -2 or should it go 1 - 2 -3 - 4.

I really need help on this guys & replies would be really appreciated.[/size][/size][/size]

[augidog]

If your injectors were working before they probally still are.
To see if they are working -take off the rubber over the fuel dizzy. Then pull one injector out.if it is a 78 or 79 you can just put the key on. Then raise the metering plate to see if the injectors are working.

I bet its a timing issue. Did you line up TDC on the oil pulley and cam pulley?

Look at the manual for wires to the coil

clockwise from the mark on the distrib cap is correct 1-3-4-2
_________________
1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.

[Benji0301]

Cheers Audidog,

I did line up the timing marks as per the manual instructions. Its a 1981 model so am unsure what you mean by lifting the plate with the key on? Don't I need to turn the ignition key to get the metering head to pump fuel to the injectors? Also should I have fuel upto the injectors even if its not spraying out of them? With regards to the ignition coil I have tried to follow the Haynes manual but cannot see any wiring colours on the diagram where it goes to the coil. Does it matter what side the wires connect to? I know one side is Green/Black & the other is Purple/Gold & I have + & - marked on the coil. Lastly can I check with a multi meter that I am getting a spark at the distributer?

Cheers

Benji

[Stampedetrail]

[N-Dub]

Put the plug on bare metal and look for spark on the crank. My valve cover has oil residue on it. I would feel comfortable sending mini sparks of fire on it.
_________________
'79 924 now Totaled! Carrera GT bodywork for sale!
'87 951

[Benji0301]

I checked in the garage last night & found the old ingition coil. I put it in the box from the new ignition coil and guess what the autoparts store had sold me a coil from a GM/Vauxhall. I am going to try tonight and start it with the old coil (wasn't anything wrong with it I just decided to replace all in the rebuild). I am awaiting the battery to finish charging so I can try it with a fully charged battery. After looking at another thread on injectors I am going to check under the distributer cover to see whether I lined the marks up correctly when I had No. 1 at TDC. I will let you know how I get on. Cheers for all the help so far guys, i'm sure there will be other teething problems I need help with.

[Benji0301]

Just a though guys, I am trying to start the engine but haven't put any new fuel in the tank. the petrol has been sitting there for about 10 months. Is it any good? Should I drain it all or put 10 liters of fresh fuel in to see if it makes any difference?

[Lizard]

without fuel stabilizer it turns to varsol after about 6 months,
_________________
3 928s,

[seanski44]

the main problem seems to be the lack of fuel out of the injectors though. if there's no fuel coming out of them, there's no point in checking your timing yet... get them fuelling first - then go back to the timing.

When setting the timing, its possible that there's multiple timing marks on the camshaft, so whip the cover off and double check that its at Top Dead Centre for Cylinder1 (the cyl at the front of the engine bay) that your dissy is pointing at the no.1 lead and that the block is also at TDC (have you had the head off the block, or is it simply a new engine?)

btw, go back to the fuelling before worrying about the coil - its quite possible that the GM/Vauxhall coil 'could' work, some of the parts are simply Bosch replacements and therefore it could easily have the same spec as the 924 one. (not saying it is, but still think you need to sort your fuelling before you worry about the timing)

also, did you manage to check the spark by putting a plug on the top of the engine? - you can do this yourself, you don't need a friend to help - you can try to turn the engine over with your hand through the window while you watch under the bonnet.
_________________
1998 BMW Z3 2.8 arctic silver & red

1981 168HP 931 S2 blue/tan leather - SOLD
1985 121HP 924 2.0l na modded - SOLD!
1992 968 lux SOLD
1989 944 2.7 lux SOLD

[Benji0301]

Ok, got the engine started, I had the leads on the plugs the wrong way round, I was starting No1 at the back rather than the front.

That problem sorted I now have another. The engine is getting hot very quickly. I only ran the engine for about a min and after 30 seconds smoke/steam started to appear on the exhaust manifold side I can't see from where and the engine started to whine.

When I reassemble the block I lubricated the bores before refitting the pistons and used a spanner on the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine. It moved freely with no problems.

I have checked that I have got water and there appears to be oil in the filter. After removing the oil filter I turned the crankshaft again a few times and oil pumped out of the filter hole, this would appear to me that the oil pump is working.

The cylinder head is quite hot fairly quicklyafter the engine has been running.

I am basically baffled as to why its getting so hot. Any ideas????

[Chrenan]

[Benji0301]

I hope you're right mate, I have removed the spark plugs & have been turning the crank by hand and there is a noise when I turn on one of the cylinders. I am just hoping one of the piston rings hasn't gone. If it had is the anyway to remove the pistons without removing the engine again?? I wil try the belt first. Cheers for the reply

[Chrenan]

I've never done it, but you can remove the pistons without removing the engine, cross member and oil pan will need to come off, as well as the head.
_________________
1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[Benji0301]

Found out what the problem is. When I fitted new piston rings I never fitted them to the bores , subsequently I believe that they are expanding & seizing in the bores. Not enough to fully seize the block but enough to cause friction & heat

I have remove the head & thank god the bores haven't been damaged. I had the bores honed during the rebuild which I reackon was my saving grace.

Now the next problem is how to get the allen head screws on the sump out from under the right hand engine mount bracket (as you look at the engine from the front of the car).

I have dropped the suspension & removed the cross member so have given myself plenty of space underneath.

I plan on removing each piston & will measure each ring in each bore & I beleive you can file the rings if the gap is to narrow??

Alternatively I considered unbolting the trans tube from the bellhousing & lifting the whole block out as one. Anyone suggest any other alternatives????

[augidog]

Just loosen that right hand engine mount. It will drop a little giving you access to that allen head bolt with a long allen wrench.
_________________
1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.