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Where Are Those $)(*#@$ 3 MM Allenheads At?

 
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Charlane  



Joined: 25 Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Location: San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:18 am    Post subject: Where Are Those $)(*#@$ 3 MM Allenheads At? Reply with quote

I STILL haven't found the 3 mm bolts to adjust valve clearance. I left this for the last thing on my list since I just took off the oil pan, did some cleaning and inspecting and fixing my broken motor mount in addition to other odds and ends.

I took off the valve cover again today and even got someone else to look with me and damn if I can find the 3 mm allenheads that I am supposed to turn to adjust valve clearance. I looked at the cam bearings, around the valves, etc. I did see some things that looked like inserts or little pop keys that slip into the cam bearings, but there is no simple way to extract these and if the allenhead bolts sit under these, then damn. I thought these bolts would be around the area of the valves. My Haynes didn't show me anything that would give me a clue.

Anyone?

Thanks in advance.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally your tappet buckets will have two holes in them, the screw for adjustment is in these holes. It is however possible that your tappets have been replaced at some point with a shimmed version.

Min
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Charlane  



Joined: 25 Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Location: San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Min. Thanks for replying. Like I said I got someone else to look at these with me (he is great at American made cars) and together we could not find out how to adjust the valve clearances on this car.

I did see those two little metal 'plugs', if you will, on top of each of the cam bearings. I didn't take these out, as these seems to be no immediate way to do this but if the allenhead screws aren't under these plugs, then what is?

Thanks again.
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One 1980 924 Turbo
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One 1977 240D Mercedes Benz
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Peter_in_AU  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 2745
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you need to remove the tappets (buckets) to get at them. There is an exploded diagram in Haynes that shows it or you can download the PET catalogue (there's a topic at the top of this forum) and look at the diagram in the cylinder head section.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if this helps at all. Item 18 are the screws you are looking for.


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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove the tappets? We must have different definitions of "remove".
Access to the 3mm adjustment screws is through the side of the tappets (aka- buckets). You should have to rotate them to bring the opening into view. Here's a diagram of a tappet (the rectangular shape to the left) and an adjustment tool inserted through the side - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=341f&.dnm=4734.jpg&.src=ph
The tappets are the cylindrical shaped parts just below each cam lobe [#17 in Chrenan's diagram].
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Peter_in_AU  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 2745
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
Remove the tappets? We must have different definitions of "remove".

Ok, it's still morning here I should have written "rotate"
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Charlane  



Joined: 25 Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Location: San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I think I know what you guys are talking about now. I didn't think of those as buckets, but there is some oil residue in these....like buckets. These are at the bottom of the cam cover body. So these are in there losely enough to where I can rotate these and then adjust? That seems a little fragile to me.

So let me get this right. One lobe is for intake and one lobe is for exhaust. There are four cylinders. Now I rotate the 'bucket' and adjust with a 3mm allenhead wrench (or special tool) to where the feeler gauge snugs for the correct clearance (can't remeber the spec right now) when the lobe cylinder is at top dead center. Am I adjusting for the intake lobe or for the exhaust lobe or both? Seems to me it would have to be one or the other because of the proximity of the rotation of the camshaft.

Ok, working on cars is great and I'm pretty good at it but I'm getting a little over rolling around in grease~! I have to work on my motorcycle next. It needs a new tensioner spring for the timing chain. It's a pretty bike though and worth what I paid for it.....every penny.

Thanks all.
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Electra is Here......

One 1980 924 Turbo
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One 1977 240D Mercedes Benz
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Charlane  



Joined: 25 Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Location: San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlane wrote:
losely


Oops. I meant to say loosely.
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Electra is Here......

One 1980 924 Turbo
One 1990 KZ1000P (CHPS) Motorcycle
One 1984 244 Turbo Volvo (B21FT) (I installed this engine myself)
One 1977 240D Mercedes Benz
One 1970 Chevy Impala
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you searched the board for:

valve adjustment
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9114
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When we say "buckets" it's a little misleading, since the buckets are upside-down. They're the solid lifters sitting directly under the cam lobes. Once the pressure is off of them, you'll be able to spin them around in their bores. They're part #17 in the diagram. There are two holes, inside one of them will be the 3mm allen head screw. You'll never see the screws unless you totally remove the lifters, but no need to here; just wiggle the key in there until it engages.

Each valve is measured and adjusted individually; all 8 may need adjustment, or maybe one or none.
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