924Board.org

[t.springer]

I have never owned a Porsche. I feel like a kid on Christmas,but I am concerned about the car setting for so long. Can anyone offer some suggestions on what I should do first? The car was running fine 2 years ago. I also need the battery cranking amps needed. Should I remove the spark plugs and spray oil in the cylinders and turn it over? The car has 100000 miles on it, and I live next door to the ex-owner. I hope he can give me more info on it later!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Paul]

Welcome to the board!

Make sure you find out from the owner when the timing belts were replaced last before you try to start the motor.

Was the car stored indoors or out?

Wally World can fix you up with the correct battery.

Find out if the owner treated the fuel with Stabil before he parked it. If not drain the fuel and refill.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[t.springer]

My Porsche was stored outside, I managed to look under the dash at the brake booster shaft and it is rusted bad. I will need to remove the booster and fix that, plus the clutch pedal just (pops) to the floor. I also have a lot of water on the floor on the passenger side. I am assuming the water is coming from the holes in the battery compartment. If there is any more advice I will be more than happy too accept it!!!!!!

[gohim]

Sounds to me like the brake master, clutch master and clutch slave cylinders all need to be replaced.

When the brake master or slave cylinder are bad, it is best to replace both, when one goes bad, because the other is soon to follow, and bleeding them is a PITA.

Of course the real problem could be a defective brake master cylinder since you wrote that the pushrod on the vacuum booster is badly rusted. Brake fluid eats paint, which leads to rust and when the brake master cylinder goes bad, what often happens is the seals on the master cylinder fail and the fluid leaks down into the vacuum booster.

The clutch master (and slave) cylinder get their fluid supply from the brake reservoir, so if the brake master cylinder leaks all the fluid down into the booster, the clutch system would go try quickly since the supply line takeoff is close to the top reservoir tank.

[t.springer]

Thanks for the reply. The brake fluid level was fine. I had a lot of water in the floor boards. It looks like rust from moister,the humidity here has been very high and with the added water in the floor boards it didn't help. It even rusted the seat slide together on the passenger side. I have my work cut out for me either way.

[t.springer]

I removed the boost and both master cylinders today. The brake booster looks ok but the clutch slave cylinder is indexed in all the way and froze up. Should I replace all 3 parts or rebuild them?

[gohim]

There are three cylinders that you need to look at: the brake master cylinder, the clutch master cylinder, and the clutch slave cylinder.

You wrote that you removed the booster and both master cylinders... Then you left the clutch slave cylinder on the carm and found that it was dead?

If that is true, then you want to replace both the clutch master, and the clutch slave cylinder.

Look carefully at the end of the brake master cylinder. does it look like it has been seeping or leaking from the end, around and under the snap ring? If so, you need to replace it.

Or if the weep hole at the bottom of the master cylinder base shows signs of leakage, or leakage in the past (paint has been burned off or the metal is bare and rusty or wet), you need to replace the brake master cylinder as well.

[t.springer]

Thanks again,I think I will replace them all. I have not been around it too much, I am still trying yo get over the 2.5 foot long snake that was bedded up on the air cleaner in the air box. I was taking the air box of and I was having a little trouble getting it off. When I gave it a good jerk I had my face right by the housing and it sccared the crap out of me. I hope my Porsche will run as good as my heart was running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[t.springer]

I am trying to manually turn over the engine on my 89 924S. I have a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt. The plugs have been removed and I have sprayed PB Blaster in each cylinder, and it will not budge. I am afraid to try very hard, Iwould hate too breack the bolt. I was told the engine was running fine 2 years ago,and it has been outside all that time. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

[gohim]

There is no such thing as a 89 924S. They were only imported for model year 87 and 88.

This does not make much of a difference since the only real differences between the two model years is the engine compression, hp ouput, and the ignition electronics.

If the engine was running properly, without any problems two years ago, why was it parked?

How many miles are on the car, and what model year is it? The 87 model year cars have engine that for some reason are prone to blowing head gaskets between 70K and 110K miles.

Maybe the engine had a blown headgasket, and it was parked for that reason OR the PO (previous owner) dod not know that the head gasket was leaking, and parked the car allowing coolant to sit in the cylinders and corrode the cylinders to the pistons.

Have you checked the timing and balance belts to make sure that they are intact and in safe condition to try to rotate the engine? Just because the belts look okay does not mean that they are safe to run the engine on. They could be dry-rotted, ready to strip teeth and jump timing. Or the timing belt could already be broken.

Even though the car was stored outside, there is no reason for the engine to be seized because there is no easy way for moisture to get inside other than a head gasket leak (or is the intake boots were left off the engine along with the hood).

Have you checked the coolant color and condition? Is there anything in there or did it leak out, and if the coolant level is good, what is the condition of the coolant. Does it have a brown spongy scum floating in it or lining the coolant tank?

What about the motor oil level and condition? Is the level good or is it too high? What does it smell like, coolant?

[Paul]

You can't break the bolt, it can take 300 ft lbs. You can break the rings which are probably corroded to the bores.

Check the cam belt, maybe it's slipped and you have a valve in contact with a piston.

The car is in neutral, right?
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[t.springer]

Yes it is a 1987. My neighber had sold it to his grandson if he kept up the payments. Well, he didn't. The car was brought back and parked. The power steering pump has been replaced and something else in the transaxle. I was told it was running fine at the time. The clutch and brake master cylinders are removed at this time. The oil and anti-freeze along with the other fluids all appear normal, that was the first thing I did. I have not tried to turn the engine over with the starter yet. The shifter is in neutral position. I don't know what the drive train does when the clutch master cylinder is remove. Does the transaxle lock in gear? Or will it move freely with the movement of the shifter?

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Lizard]

as long as the car is in nuetral yah should be able to run it over by hand should take more than about 15-30 ft lbs,

first thing I would do is verify that the timing belt hasnt broken, or with too much force you can bend the valves by hand,

I see you already have the plugs out so that is a positive, you could also do a leakdown test to see how much pressure it holds.
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3 928s,