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trbo81 · Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 61 Location: Michigan

For the past two days I've been trying to take off the rear control arm. to do this I need to unbolt the 6 alan headed bolts that connect the axle shaft to the arm. Besides my frustration that I think this is a bad design to use these kinds of bolts in this area, I have tried to unbolt them by using an alan wrench which just rounded it and using vise grips which just rounded the outside of the bolt. Now the one that I have been working on is rounded inside and out and I cant do shit with it. I did manage to get one of them out and the bolt itself is the cleanest bolt I've pulled off the car. I've used penetrating oil and I tried heating around the bolts with mapp gass. Everything short of grinding off the heads and drilling them out. nothing seems to free them. Is there a trick to get these off that I am missing? in my Haynes manual there is just one step for this and in the pics it looks easy. HELP!
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some times I think Murphy's Law is out to get me
Keep racing on the track....or away from my car...short long story
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trbo81 · Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 61 Location: Michigan

I also was wondering if there were any tricks for the rear hub assembly. In the Haynes manual they only talk about dismantling hubs with drum brakes, but mine is disk brakes and I'm not sure how to get to the nut set on the spindle that is set into the rotor. thanks
_________________
some times I think Murphy's Law is out to get me
Keep racing on the track....or away from my car...short long story
don't buy from D & J auto parts in Richmond Indiana ask me why

Ozzie · Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:27 am Post subject:

These bolts can be either allen head or 12 point star.
In my case 3 CV's are allen head and the other 12 point.
The 12 point can and will strip if you try to use an allen key but as I was replacing it with allen head I bashed in a 1/4 allen key with a hammer and loosened it that way.

My car has drums so not familiar with Q2 but thought it would be similar.
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

Lizard · Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:36 am Post subject:

correct you should have 12 point 8mm allen key screws in there not a tradition allen key.

with regards to that bolt holding the hub together it is on there really right, you will have to have the CV joints hooked up, the wheels on and the car on the ground with the car in gear, and ebrake on to get them to break free, you MAY be able to have someone sit inside the car and hold enough pressure on the brake system to be able to break it free that way
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3 928s,

Slam · Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:59 am Post subject:

Had to drill a couple of my CV bolts and use an extractor. EZ Outs they're called around here (EZ, my ass). If you plan to replace them all (and you should as a matter of course), may as well grind 'em. They can really, REALLY be a PITA.

Good luck.
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'88 944 Auto - may or may not resurrect

Paul · Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 12:12 pm Post subject:

A 6" pipe wrench may free them.

In any case, take a punch and insert it into the center of each CV bolt and give them a couple of sharp whacks to "wake them up".

I've also been able to remove them with a good set of vise grips.
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JB 924 · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 606 Location: Hessen, Germany

If they still don't come out, insert the triple square key, and hit it with a hammer so it will go deeper so it won't round the bolt. Then you can really pull on the ratched to get it out.

Ozzie · Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 12:58 pm Post subject:

Just spent about 3 hours replacing the last 6 bolts on a CV.
Managed to get 4 off using the method described earlier.
For the last 2 I had to misshape the head a little with a chisel and FBH and then bashed in a 1/4 inch bar and used a socket on that.
Finally all done with some peace of mind.
The reason it took so long? The exhaust pipe was in the way. Can't swing a cat.
_________________
Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

Lizard · Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 2:37 am Post subject:

trbo81 · Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 61 Location: Michigan

Okay, this on going saga is starting to get on my nerves. I got the hub disassembled and I was able to get a better look at my trailing arm....it looks normal to me (compairing it to the other arm) but it still has the camber off. I went though the adjustements of that bolt on the spring plate but it was all ready adjusted to the highest point. if the arm looks fine and the bolt is adjusted all the way what else is left? all I can think is the bushings are bad but I dont see how that would affect it that much to make my wheel look like this --/ / the wheel doesnt wabble either when it is spun around.....so I'm at a loss. I'd hate to take it to a shop because I hate shops and dealerships
_________________
some times I think Murphy's Law is out to get me
Keep racing on the track....or away from my car...short long story
don't buy from D & J auto parts in Richmond Indiana ask me why

924RACR · Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:08 am Post subject:

Refresh my memory, where in MI are you?

I don't really have a good pic to reference on adjusting the alignment...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

trbo81 · Joined: 30 Nov 2005 Posts: 61 Location: Michigan

Adrian......if I had a picture of a hand I could show you, haha (its a michigan thing) I dont have a digital camera (wish I did) so I cant really post pics quick but I am talking about my passenger side and it looks just like if the camber was adjusted all the way so the outter edge of the tire is the only part on the ground, but looking everything over it looks like someone took a magic wand and went poof and changed my camber with no disturbance to the parts. no marks as if the bolts came lose, no broken or bent parts. could the torsion bar have been broken or something like that?
_________________
some times I think Murphy's Law is out to get me
Keep racing on the track....or away from my car...short long story
don't buy from D & J auto parts in Richmond Indiana ask me why

Smoothie · Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:06 am Post subject:

Yeah a pic would help, but which way is the wheel tilted - out at top? -or out at bottom?

You aren't checking the camber with it jacked up, right?

A spring problem could cause camber to be off - if broken or just out of adjustment.. To rule it out or in, just check the ride height - both sides should be the same.
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Lizard · Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:13 am Post subject:

These cars dont have springs in the rear so a broken spring isnt going to cause that issue.

If the torsion bar was indeed broken then that side would be sitting on the bumper stop.
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3 928s,

924RACR · Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:49 pm Post subject:

Correct, no springs, but Smoothie does bring up a good point in that ride height, if changed, will affect camber, not to mention looking at it up in the air. When it's up in the air, it will have more positive camber (top of wheel too far outside the body - think like \---/ ) than when on the ground.

I'm trying to remember which way it'll go (by gravity) if you loosen all the bolts while it's in the air). I want to say it'll slip to neg camber...
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype