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GP924 · Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 34 Location: Grants Pass, OR

OK, this is going to sound funny and I am ready for you to laugh at me. I have spent the last 6 months getting my 931 running (PO let it set for 8 years without running). I have it running and am driving it. However I have never owned a turbo in my 40 some years of driving and do not know what it should sound like. I have found that if I accelerate hard I hear a sound like a medium pitch whine. If I accelerate moderately I do not hear the wine but still accelerate briskly. My first question is: Is this whine the waste gate opening or is this the turbo kicking in? When you stop laughing at my lack of knowledge I have another question.

The PO also decide to do a real number on the wiring on my car. I have sorted out enough to make it run, however I am having a real hard time figuring out the wiring at the connector to the motor that raises and lowers the headlight. Could someone provide the color code from their car from the pointy side to the flat side. The year of my 931 is 1980 if that has any bearing on the color of the wiring. I know for sure that one wire is ground and one wire is hot, I assuming the other two wires are hot only when the lights are shut off or turned on. But there are a lot of combinations for 4 wires in 4 holes (16 I believe).

Thanks to everyone for your help, and patience with a newbie.

leadfoot · Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:20 pm Post subject:

If the whine is coming from the front then yes it's probably the turbo, if it's coming from the back put some oil in the transaxle...
Leadfoot
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GP924 · Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 34 Location: Grants Pass, OR

OK, I had someone ride with me and he agrees the sound apears normal (turbo's are just noisy when they kick in).

Anybody got input on the wiring issue for my retractable headlight motor. My Haynes manual page is not good enough to show the wiring colors and I really need to sort out how to hook it up. Right now I am driving around with the headlights open all the time.

I will wander around on the Internet see I can find anything (also got a link to a newer copy of the manual, but if anyone can help I sure would appreciate it.

Al

Mike924 · Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK

GP924 · Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 34 Location: Grants Pass, OR

Thanks so much Mike924. That is extremely clear. I can trace the circuits and insert the pins and if it is like everything else the PO did I will be functioning again. For some reason the PO thought the electrical was screwed up after is set for 8 years and started cutting wires to try to fix the problem (he added a few too). So far I have found one electrical problem other than bad grounds and that was with the fuel relay(I have a switch on it to by-pass so I can drive the car till I sort that one out.

The real problem was the bad gas and rust in the gas tank, took me a month to get the gas tank redone. I drained it let it dry and then took a rubber mallet and banged it all over. I pulled out what appeared to be pieces of syphon hoses some things I didn't recognize and about a gallon of rust. I then used the product POR-15 to clean, etch, and seal (although I had no holes) the tank. Then spent about an hour cleaning some of the threads I did not cover well enough before I could reinstall tank and hook everything up.

Anyway, I have lights and with your help will soon have hide aways again.

Thanks, Al

Mike924 · Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK

Did you apply the POR-15 to the inside of the tank?
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flosho · Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 5:58 am Post subject:

You should change the timing belt if you haven't already...

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GP924 · Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 34 Location: Grants Pass, OR

Yup, POR 15 does the inside. They sell a kit for about $65 and it comes with everything you need. However you should plan on spending about 4-5 hours doing the job. My arms were killing me when I was done from sloshing the stuff around in the tank. You also need a good amount of duct tape to cover the various outlets during the process (don't skimp or you'll have a mess). Great stuff, strongly recommend it to anyone.

I have changed all the belts including the timing belt. Went through the brakes, checked the differential level, changed the antifreeze out, and put in new aircleaners. I couldn't find the aircleaner locally so I took the measurements and went to my local Walmart and started opening boxes looking for an air cleaner that I could fit two side by side in my air cleaner box. Got it on the first box I opened (had planned about 30 minutes for the task). The air cleaners cost about 5.50 each so for two it is 11.00 and saves me the trouble of ording 1. I need to get the intake rub that goes between the air cleaner housing and the fuel distributor if anyone knows where i can get one of these.

The car runs pretty good, the more I drive it the better it gets.

My synchro for 2nd is shot (snail shell) but I used to drive old trucks without synchromesh so I am used to double clutching. I would like to keep the snail shell as it is so unique. I think I saw synchros somewhere for $150 each, probably save up and rebuild the trans next summer or sometime thereafter.

Anyway, still a lot to do, but getting there.