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New Member with clutch pedal problems

 
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Shadeslayer  



Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Bay Area, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 5:55 am    Post subject: New Member with clutch pedal problems Reply with quote

Hi, I have an 87 924S that my dad picked up at an auction a while back. It seemed to be running fine until one time I pressed down the clutch and it wouldn't return. Have any of you had the same problem?
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Stu2j  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 1285
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the clutch cable broke.

Amended - that's the 924 response.

For the 924S... it is most likely faulty clutch master/slave cylinders
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most probably either the clutch master or clutch slave cylinder has died.

Have you noticed the brake fluid going down? That would be because the clutch is fed from the same reservoir as the master brake cylinder. If the clutch master cylinder is leaking, very often, the fluid ends up on the carpet under the driver's feet, and there won't be a visible leak under the car.

They are fairly inexpensive, and you should be able to buy the pair for $150 or less. Change both now, when one dies, the other isn't far behind, and bleeding the clutch is not any fun at all, so you don't want to do it twice. While you are in there anyway, you should go ahead and bleed the brake system as well. Infact, I would bleed the brake system first to get rid of the old contaminated fluid before I even installed the new clutch cylinders. That way, you will not be filling your new clutch parts with the crude that is going to kill them.
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Shadeslayer  



Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Bay Area, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick responses, I'm going to check it out now.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gohim wrote:
Most probably either the clutch master or clutch slave cylinder has died.

Have you noticed the brake fluid going down? That would be because the clutch is fed from the same reservoir as the master brake cylinder. If the clutch master cylinder is leaking, very often, the fluid ends up on the carpet under the driver's feet, and there won't be a visible leak under the car.

They are fairly inexpensive, and you should be able to buy the pair for $150 or less. Change both now, when one dies, the other isn't far behind, and bleeding the clutch is not any fun at all, so you don't want to do it twice. While you are in there anyway, you should go ahead and bleed the brake system as well. Infact, I would bleed the brake system first to get rid of the old contaminated fluid before I even installed the new clutch cylinders. That way, you will not be filling your new clutch parts with the crude that is going to kill them.


In addition to excellent advice above, since your hose from the brake master cylinder reservoir to the clutch MC and the hose from the cltuch MC to the clutch slave is probably 20 years old, consider replacing them both.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Shadeslayer  



Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Bay Area, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gohim wrote:
Most probably either the clutch master or clutch slave cylinder has died.

Have you noticed the brake fluid going down? That would be because the clutch is fed from the same reservoir as the master brake cylinder. If the clutch master cylinder is leaking, very often, the fluid ends up on the carpet under the driver's feet, and there won't be a visible leak under the car.

They are fairly inexpensive, and you should be able to buy the pair for $150 or less. Change both now, when one dies, the other isn't far behind, and bleeding the clutch is not any fun at all, so you don't want to do it twice. While you are in there anyway, you should go ahead and bleed the brake system as well. Infact, I would bleed the brake system first to get rid of the old contaminated fluid before I even installed the new clutch cylinders. That way, you will not be filling your new clutch parts with the crude that is going to kill them.



I have noticed a leak under the car, but not on the carpet under the driver's feet. How doable is replacing those parts to the clutch and relevant hoses? Considering where I obtained the 924S, I was thinking of doing a complete teardown to see what else needs replacing, besides just the clutch. But what work would be worth having done at a dealership/shop?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That depends on your skill level, the availability of the necessary manuals and tools.

A clutch job on a 924S is not a trivial task, some have given up in the middle of the job, others have taken weeks. Some of us can do it on a single Saturday with a cooperative car. A single bolt that has corroded or a PO tightened too tight can add considerable time and aggravation.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear god, I was just looking at the slave cylinder removal in Haynes (my master is just beginning to seep). . .

Is it accurate? Remove the exhaust & wastegate? Axles? Starter? Use an engine hoist?

AIEEEEEEEEEEE!



rasta
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  • WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The slave cylinder is held by two bolts and is near the starter.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
The slave cylinder is held by two bolts and is near the starter.


Sheesh, so Haynes is incorrect about the massive teardown to get to it, then?



Whew!
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  • WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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ronined  



Joined: 01 Dec 2006
Posts: 55
Location: Auburn, AL

PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shadeslayer,

Like gohim, Once I got the clutch master cylinder working right the slave crapped out a week or so later. If you replace one, replace the other.

Ed
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the slave cyl rebuild and reinstall process down to <1 hour from doing it so many times.
I bench bleed, then reconnect the hydraulic line before bolting the slave back in - this simplifies the bleeding, which I don't even do - I just pump the pedal to finish the job.
Combine the slave replacement with a starter solenoid cleaning since the starter's out anyway. -And dribble some Liquid Wrench or whatever onto that center button inside the solenoid and push down on it to provide the internal switch parts with some rust prevention. I actually dribble on the fluid, then smack the button down repeatedly to dislodge any oxidation and clean those hidden switch contacts.
Once the slave goes bad and starts to leak, some of that leakage goes into the starter solenoid, gunking it up with a dirt/fluid concoction and promoting rust since the fluid is hygroscopic.

I would say if you have to replace the master, do the slave as well if you like.. -But since the slave goes bad way more often than the master, you don't always have to replace/rebuild the master when the slave goes bad.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Shadeslayer  



Joined: 14 Jun 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Bay Area, CA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:14 am    Post subject: Now that the slave cylinder is removed... Reply with quote

First of all, thanks to the members who replied to the problem I'm having. Due to school/work/vacation, I've been unable to get to the problem until now. I just got done removing the clutch slave cylinder and checking to see if it's smooth inside. For feedback I'm going to post a few pics of the inside of the cylinder. I'd appreciate the feedback very much.

Then I'll get to work removing the clutch master cylinder!
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics are always good to look at, so go ahead if you have the time, but the condition of the bore is more of a judgement call based on feel more than sight. I'd be willing to guess you found the rubber bellows piece torn, then some dirt/gunk inside beyond it. Anyway, take the slave cylinder to a freind that messes with cars and seems to be experienced and good at it to get their opinion on the condition of the bore if you're not comfortable with judging it yourself. I have 2 slaves that I swap back and forth and neither one is perfect - there are a few small signs of rust, but no deep pitting - just tiny 1-2mm diameter spots that I'd estimate are similar in roughness to worn down 800 grit sandpaper.
Advance AutoParts has the slave rebuild seal kit at about $17. Autozone has it at about $5-$10 more than that.
Unless you like an adventure or you know it's been a long time since the master has been serviced, I would just finish up the slave and take it from there. Deal with the master seperately if you find there's still a problem.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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