924Board.org

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

Hey all.
Has Anybody done the bumpsteer kit mentioned on the tech page? I went out and purchased the aluminium stock (enough to make 2 if anybody is interested). 2 feet of 6061 according to the tech article should make enough for 2 cars. Anyway, looking at the car if I make one side 6 inches, the length will be considerably longer than stock. Does anybody know if this is too long? Somehow I think 3 inches per side should be enough, but I don't want to get them machined and find out I did nothing! Any thoughts???
Darren

Min · Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 2:10 pm Post subject: Re: Bumpsteer Questions.

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

No,
I haven't tried to measure the bumpsteer, but it is a well known problem with these cars lowered. My plan was to build the kit and work out the bugs when the car is put back together. My understanding is that in order to counter bumpsteer by moving the rack would be upward, and there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of room. This outer fix seems to be an easier one with basically endless adjustment. My real problem is how long to make the sleeves. A rough measurement tells me that a 6 inch sleeve will make the tie rods longer by about 3 inches per side. I think that's excessive, but the article specifically says 6 inches. I'm lost guys!
Help!
Darren

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 4:12 am Post subject:

I haven't done it and don't plan to - never even thought of it until today, but..
I see what you mean and my best guess is that the article is misleading. Maybe they meant to say that you need a total of 6" of the rod stock for the whole project. That would then get cut in half, etc...
≈3" does look like the length you'd need.

http://www.924.org/techsection/8steering.htm
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

I was thinking that 6 in. would be for both after measuring, but I didn't know for sure. I'm suprised nobody has done this mod. Well I guess I'll just do my best measuring and go from there!
Darren

leadfoot · Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 3:54 pm Post subject:

It's your lucky day.
different way of doing it.... but keep in mind that this only reduces toe not camber, you might be able to see in the second pic that a steering knuckle extender is used to attach to the a arm ball joint to correct for camber...
there's no way this is 6" they used washers as spacers to correct the length.
Leadfoot

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1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

I've been looking at those pictures. I downloaded them a while ago. If you read the article in the tech section, the sleeve is actually for the heim joint to screw into then the sleeve screws over the inner tie rod. That's why they tell you to drill and tap for the SAE threaded heim joint and the metric tir rod end. I'm still confused if this needs to be longer than stock or basically the same length. The reason for the heim joint is so you can thread any length bolt through the steering knuckle for adjustment of the angle of the tie rod (via spacers or washers). I wouldn't think extra length of the actual tie rod would be necessary would it? The goal is to keep the tie rods basically parallel to the ground right? I'm still not clear on this. If I can't get a clear answer on the length, I'll just cut them in 3, 4, 5, and 6 inch lenghts and adjust accordingly. Hmm....I think I just figured out a work around! I'll just make different lengths of sleeve and swap out until I come up with the best length with the proper adjustment....great even more to adjust then just throw out the remaining extra lengths. Okay then!!
Darren

leadfoot · Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:39 am Post subject:

You need to measure a the tie rod from the start of the threaded section on the main rod to the end of the rod including the jam nut .... i.e 5"
then subtract the measurement of the length of a heim joint not including it's thread and subtract this from your first total.
A stock tie rod has about 1" of thread not used, and this will give you plenty of adjustment if neccessary...
You could always work backwards, drill the knukle, fit a long bolt, attach your heim joint,install the rack end, and then measure from thread to thread.
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

leadfoot · Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:40 am Post subject:

BTW where did you find those pictures??
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

okay,
finished rebuilding the rack. Measuring roughly from steering knuckle to steering knuckle is about 51.5 inches. if I but the heim joint to the threads of the inner tie rod it works out to about 54 inches. or about 2.5 inches too wide.

so, what I think I'll do, is cut about an inch off of the heim joint and the inner rod. that will give me 4 inches off. or about 50 inches. So, I should have at least .75 inches per side toe in adjustment, and more out. Also I've got the inners set about in the middle of the threads, so I've got adjustment there. now to figure out the length of the rod to get drilled and tapped!!!
Darren

leadfoot · Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:25 pm Post subject:

In looking at those pics I would suggest the following...
Leave your heim joint alone...
Cut your tie rod in front of the jam nut and remove the jam nut...
Drill your bar stock with two drill sizes so you can countersink the new thread in a depth of 2 inches to accept the tie rod.
i.e three inche hole with only 1 inch tapped thread.
This is so you can use the stock as a sheath to add support to the tie rod and it will also be easy to change to a new tie rod as you could just screw on your sheath until it stops when it runs out of thread.
Drill and tap the other end of the bar stock for the heim joint.
Then all your adjustment can be made through the heim joint and you can easily replace the heim joints without modification and the bar stock sheath is reusable. The only thing you would need to do when replacing tie rods is to cut off some of the thread.
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

PORSCHEV · Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:05 pm Post subject:

I am concerned about using aluminum as a steering component...if it is for saving weight I would go on a diet.....might save your life!
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1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.

1978-#53 "D" track racer.

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

You could also buy a female threaded Heim that would screw on like a factory tie rod.
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WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

bass gt · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 2:05 am Post subject:

use a female joint. However, with 15" wheels, there isn't a great deal of room to drop the joint. You will get about an inch max. Still, it all helps.
And DON't use Ali in the stering system. Best bet is to machine a steel bar, bore and tap it to M14x1.5 and use that to extend the female joint. If you compare the stock rod end, it is a lot longer than the joint, so the rack wont reach into the joint.

Steve

Dagwood928 · Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 65

I've recently discovered Paragon products has the correct female Heim joints and that is obviously the way to go. I guess the question is if the aluminium is dangerous why is this site publishing this for all to see. I didn't build it but I sure was close! Maybe I was misreading the how to, but I don't think so. So, female heim joint and I think when I find the correct adjustment, a stainless steel sleeve cut to length should work! (for the vertical adjustment).
Darren