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HELP! here we go, starter works if jumped but not with key?

 
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vancan924  



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 13
Location: vancouver, canada

PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 2:22 pm    Post subject: HELP! here we go, starter works if jumped but not with key? Reply with quote

it never did turn over strong with the key, but she usualy fired. then all of a sudden it would only turn a short crank and then stop, almost like a realay or conection was over heating or shorting out. now she doesnt turn over at all with the key, but if i jump the wire in the harness going to the starter it turns over great but wont fire? i also checked the fuses and with the ignition in the on position only half the fuses are live, could this be part of the problem, what could cause this? the interior lights etc work but the voltage at the coil is only around 7 volts.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where exactly did you jump the wire. If you only bypassed the ignition switch, it would indicate that this is where the fault lies, which could also explain only half the fuses being live. What is and isn't working. If it's every thing on the '51' circuit, it's most likely the ignition switch.

If your car has ballast resistors, then 6 - 7 V at the coil is correct when the engine's running.
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vancan924  



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 13
Location: vancouver, canada

PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

near the battery box where the heavy positive wire enters the sleeve with the wires coming from the ignition, thats where i jumped it. the low voltage at the coil is when the ignition is in the on position and the engine is NOT running
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lower coil voltage is normal for your car with the ignition switched on - the engine doesn't have to be actually running. It goes up (to closer to 12V) while the starter is activated (the starter solenoid closes a switch contact to send a higher voltage to the coil during starting). If coil voltage goes up while you're jump starting it, then the solenoid and its' connections are ok, otherwise somethings wrong there. -But that would be a secondary issue - the primary problem is still most likely with the ignition switch. After that, suspect and check the 3-pole connector "T3a" in the engine compartment (Haynes pg. 252, current track 5)(actually, check this first because it's easier than dealing with the ignition switch). Then I'd suspect+check the A10 connection on the back of the fuse-relay panel (this is a more involved endeavor, so obviously check all the pins on back of the panel if/when you have it out).
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vancan924  



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 13
Location: vancouver, canada

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just ordered a manuel, will pick it up on the way home tonight. i dropped the fuse box and found a lot of corosion on the back connections, some of the fuses are not making contact due to corosion on the fuses. only half of the fuses are receiving power when the ignition is in the on position. I'm starting to think ignition. will i cause any damage if i by pass the ignition and take power directly to the fuse panel from the battery?
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
The lower coil voltage is normal for your car with the ignition switched on - the engine doesn't have to be actually running.

Ooops! Yes, what I reallly meant was 'with the key in the normal engine-running position.'

vancan924 wrote:
will i cause any damage if i by pass the ignition and take power directly to the fuse panel from the battery?

It all depends how good a job you do of it. How will you turn the ignition on and off? A better approach is to clean all the connections between the fuses and the holders. There's also a crown-shaped earth point behind the fuse panel; that'll need cleaning too. Also, it might be worth pulling the relays (one at a time) and cleaning up the terminals.
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1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd

'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vancan,
I am back in Vancouver now, pm me your phone # and I will give you a shout within the next day or so.
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vancan924  



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 13
Location: vancouver, canada

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wa-hooo she's running great now, if only i had brakes!!!!! anyone with a master cylinder?
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so I am guessing the switch and cleaning the contacts in the fuse box fixed her.

might try posting a wanted add in the buy sell section
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vancan924  



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 13
Location: vancouver, canada

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you bet, thanks. the main problem was the fuse panel, even with the new ignition there wasnt enough power getting to the relay to turn on the fuel pump. once i rebuilt the fuse panel the old ignition worked but sometimes cut out, so it was a good thing i had the new one. i posted an add in the want section already, even called weissach and they say they cant get one. maby someone on the board has adapted a different one and can tell me how.
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