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Demisters not working

 
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flames  



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 88
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:10 am    Post subject: Demisters not working Reply with quote

I cant get either my front or rear window to demist. The rear one has 12V power to one side, and the other is earthing well, so any ideas?
Also the front demister seems to do very very little, after about a hour of driving about 1/4 of the windscreen may be demisted, but only on a good day.
Any ideas?
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Wind down the window about 1-2 cm.

2. Measure resistance/continuity of rear window element, sounds like it has corroded open circuit (at least on some sections).

3. Check under dash for disconnected/missing ducting and operation of flap and cable.

Roger
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flames  



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 88
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the moment I am winding the window down to drive, but it is cold .
I did check the resistance across the rear window, can't remember the value, but it was connected, Also checked there was curretn flow, which there was.
How do the flaps on the 924 heater work? I have found that one of the sliding controls opens and closes the feet flap, does the other one just open and close the face one? And demisters are always open?
Thanks
Beau Logue
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am sorry you dont know what cold is living in AU, come and spend a winter in saskatoon Canada one winter, then you can talk about that. lol

you should verify that your blower motor is working properly, you have a thermistat installed, and the heater valve is good.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flames wrote:
Quote:
How do the flaps on the 924 heater work?


Not really sure now offhand.

Take it you have the controls with the 3 sliders. Top one opens external air vent and turns on fan at right position, first slow through integral resistor then full on. Gutless stock fan anyway so move lever full RIGHT.

Middle lever opens coolant (hot water) valve, so standard is on at RIGHT.

Bottom lever opens/closes bottom flap so again to deflect air up move RIGHT.

Little levers on middle vent open/close internal flaps. Up pozzy closes vents and is supposed to deflect air through demist vents. Maybe the internal foam seal has come off these and is blocking flow. Also the demist vent channel is stapled cardboard fibre under the dash backing so if your dash is in poor buckled condition it will just leak.

Possible rats nest, who knows, but time to get your head up there.

Happy headspin!

Roger
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for frayed wires and clean all connections. I found my 12v+ supply at the rear defroster (a black heavy gauge wire that runs from the body and connects to the left hatch strut) frayed, with over half of the strands broken. When they're like that, you'll still get a 12V reading, but they won't pass enough amperage to defrost the window. The same can happen at any connection - you may get a 12V reading, but not enough current passes through to sufficiently power the component. It can also happen at switches - I recently sped-up my power windows by cleaning the switches. Start by checking/cleaning wiring and connections back at the hatch, then check the connections at the back of the fuse-relay panel for burnt/oxidized pins. The ground path for the rear defroster is through the right-side hatch strut - through the mounting, not through that small wire at the body end of the strut (that small wire is the ground for the luggage area light switch which is also built into the strut).
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flames  



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 88
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, on the rear window, what sort of amps shoul it be drawing?
I will stick my head up there tonight and look for blockages in the front.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is not connected so cant measure it. Fuse is rated at 16A so max draw would be around 10-12A.

The actual measured resistance is 2.5 ohms which will draw around 5A. Mine may be a little sus on some "lines" so take that as minimum acceptable value.

Using a DMM to measure resistance, first short the test probes to measure lead resistance then deduct this value from your reading.

Checking actual voltage across the element while energised will give an indication of system voltage drop. Considering 4.0mm2 cable any more than say 2V will be poor connectors, bad earth, etc.

Roger
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My front window was like yours; only a foot-wide band in the middle would demist.

The problem was the flap at the bottom of the heater/blower; the one which sends air to the footwell or upstairs. I wasn't closing the footwell vent properly, so with a bit of judicious tweaking, I bent the level rod (at the flap end) so that it closed better (still not perfect, though).

This sent a lot more air to the windscreen: it now clears about three quarters of the area.

The through-ventilation in these cars is not at all good. It's a bit too clever for itself. Air is supposed to be drawn through vents just below the rear hatch, forward through the doors ( ) and exit through the front door jamb. I think this really only works at speeds above about 45 mph. At lower speeds it's useless, causing the interior to mist up at the slightest excuse!
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Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 88
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

interesting, so the big holes in door trims is not going to be helping things at all. will try sealing them up. Might stop the water coming in too
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