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Joe549 · Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:05 pm Post subject: How to store long term

what would be the best way to store a car for a long term period? i.e. 2-5 years. I am thinking ways that would be best if the car were to go for long periods, mininimal 6 months, without being started or moved. What would have to be done to avoid, or at least lessen, the car from deteriorating, seals drying out, parts seizing, mechanical failure etc etc. I have never stored anything for longer than 6 months, at least not without starting and running at least once a month.

emoore924 · Joined: 13 Apr 2004 Posts: 2822

There are several past threads that address this question. Use search to find what's out there.

Since you're asking about a time frame longer than "the winter", I'd take a lesson from boat storage -- replace all fluids, make sure anything rubber or plastic isn't bent so it "takes a set", treat the fuel, suspend on jackstands, and fog the motor before putting away.

You might want to check with a local car museum and find out what they do.

tuurbo · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:40 am Post subject:

I stored mine outdoors for 2 years and I'll never do it again.

All of the above ideas are good but the way to store is indoors.

joecitizennn · Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land

I just cleaned the whole car inside and out, filled up the tank, put fuel stabilizer in it, circulated the stabilizer, put it in blocks, disconnected the battery, waxed it, put a car cover on it, and put out a lot of rat/mouse poison in the shed where I stored it. I intend to run it within a year. I don’t think it is good for cars to be stored much longer than that without being run periodically.

As an afterthought, since it is the winter season, and if you are in an area that salts the roads, you should steam clean that underbody, and all the cracks and crevices. If you just park it, when the temp rises above freezing that salt is gonna start eating away at metal.

johnathan1 · Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 308 Location: Downey, Ca

Mechanical failure and parts seizing seems to be the biggest problem...like on my car for example. It was sitting for about 9 1/2 years after the original owner passed away...and the water pump went bad, heater valve seized, AAV seized, wiper motor seized, master cylinder started leaking horrible when I went to drive it, etc...

I think covering it indoors is the most important part of keeping the body seals in good shape. I have seen several cars that were stored in a garage with no cover, and the seals usually start cracking and turning powdery after 2 years! O_O Not to mention all of the belts and hoses in the engine bay. I would also put silica gel packets inside the car all over the place to absorb any moisture.
_________________
-1977 924, 4-Spd...Gone
-1987 Toyota Supra Turbo, Pearl White, BPU, 300RWHP @ 10psi.
-1989 Mercedes-Benz 300SEL

WARNING: MAY CONTAIN TRACES OF AUDI OR VW!

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:15 am Post subject:

Whether you cover it or not, leave the windows opened a bit. I think it was Paul - left a car outdoors with a tarp on it and closed the windows. Come opening time, found the interior drenched and covered with algae/mold.
Same with my Jeep that was left for a few years outdoors and not covered - the windows were closed, moisture inside condensed on everything and the whole interior was dripping. The carpet and headliner were moldy.
Leaving the windows opened a crack prevents it.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Paul · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:59 am Post subject:

I confess I was the idiot that did that so my wife could keep her Audi TT in the garage....
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

D Hook · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 3158 Location: Omaha, NE

Always a gentleman Paul.

Joe, any chance of having someone start it up every week for you?

I've stored mine over the winter but always managed to get over to start it about once a month. Never had any trouble. I think the longest I stored it was about 6 months. Didn't do much except take the battery out and treat the fuel. Put in a new battgery and it took right off.

Up on blocks, just enough to take the weight off the tires.

Full fuel tank to keep condensation from rusting the tank. Add Stabil fuel stabilizer but be sure to run the engine for a while after adding to get it into the fuel dizzy and injectors.

Disconnect and remove the battery. If it's stored for a long time (a year?) I would just plan on putting in a fresh battery when you get back.

I've been told the oil turns acidic when sitting but not sure about that. I'd be more concerned about the antifreeze. Make sure it's fresh. I wouldn't leave it dry though because it seems you'd just be exposing metal surfaces to rusting without antifreeze in there. Be sure you have the aluminum-compatible stuff.

Crack the window(s) just a little. You can buy those packets for absorbing moisture. Maybe also a couple boxes of baking soda to absorb odors.

Pat the hood and kiss the badge. Gotta' do that....it's in the handbook.

_________________
'80 924 n/a SOLD

Tigger937 · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:59 pm Post subject:

Automotion (formerly Performance Products) sells an air bubble for your car that comes complete with small fan and optional dehumidifier for like $150.
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1981 931 (Concours)
1982 931 (Daily Driver)

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joecitizennn · Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land

I believe that engine oil begins to break down after it is subjected to the heat and mechanical activity of a running engine. That is why alot of sources say to change your oil every three months regardless of mileage. I dont think that having used engine oil sitting in your car is terribly destructive, but it is not a good idea to run your car much after storage without first changing the oil. If you dont want old degenerating engine oil in your engine while it is stored, change the oil along with blocking the car up and putting a cover on it.

StienbargerR · Joined: 28 Oct 2005 Posts: 1362 Location: Richmond, IN

I think you can buy products that absord moisture so you could keep the windows closed. I think Griots car care has a product like that.

Ryan
_________________
1978 924 NA
-250lb lowering springs, Euro Pistons

johnathan1 · Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 308 Location: Downey, Ca

flosho · Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:12 pm Post subject:

Where can I get these things to absorb the moisture, I have to do that for my car so the floor boards dont get damp..
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marius208 · Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:29 am Post subject:

I found some silica packs on eBay - for RV/Car storage.

Just search "Desiccant Packs"

One more to add: this is sold at Performance Products for about $17 - non-electric air dryer.

$7 here:

http://www.nationalmarineproducts.com/DRI_Z_AIR_Unit_p/16133.htm