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Intercooled my 931

 
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:40 am    Post subject: Intercooled my 931 Reply with quote

I know it is not the prettiest, but I think it will work pretty well.
The bends were so tight that I could not use any "off the shelf" bends. I used a section of the piping that I bought with the intercooler, and the rest is 2.25" exhaust tubing. For the bends I combed through the radiator hoses at the local auto parts store. I found two hoses with useful looking bends and the right diameter. The two blue silicone 90's were left over from my last DIY turbo project.
The intercooler sits right above the oil cooler and is pretty open to the wheelwell. hopefully my front tire does not throw a stone into the intercooler and cause a leak.
I cut out a small amount of metal in the wheelwell. I also slightly hammered in the inner fender to get the pipe leaving the turbo to sit nice.
I also had to remove the right side headlight bracket/stop, along with the washer solvent bottle. I might retrofit a "pump and bag" like a lot of old American muscle cars did from the factory.
I eliminiated the overboost switch too. The car would not start without grounding the wire to the switch.

I have a nice BOV I can install, but I don't think I need it. Since it would vent to atmosphere, I am guessing that it might cause the engine to run rich momentarily after it purges already metered air. The factory KKK turbo already has a bypass valve anyway. I have to admit that I do like the audible PSSHHHTTT!! with a BOV, even though it can be kinda ricey.





I have only test driven it for a couple miles, so I do not have any driving impressions yet.

I also need to trim the excess off the hose clamps and clean up my fender trimming too.
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good Dude! How much was the cooler and piping and materials? Roughly...?

What happens with the headlight now?
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1980 924 turbo, MSD, Meth. Inj, otherwise stock.
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I have about $70 into pipe, fittings, clamps, etc... and about $200 on the intercooler and BOV.
The headlight operates like normal with the stop bracket removed.
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macBdog  



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 1111
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woohoo it lives again! Looks good.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9105
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh crap....photobucket again....i cant see any pictures in this website anymore....do you guys see the pics hosted on Photobucket? Imageshack works fine but photobucket is being banned or something.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob
Looks good...couple of suggestions:
  • Put some wire mesh where you cut out the wheel well, should reduce the chances of catching road debris
  • Make an airbox both to and from the IC, as this will make sure you have proper air flow THROUGH the IC and not around it. Lots of articles on Autospeed on how to measure pressure drops using a Magnahelic gauge, would be good reference material for you to optimize cooling in that particular location.
  • You definitely do NOT need another BOV. The factory unit is technically a recirculating valve, as opposed to a BOV, which vents the charge back into the intake path so that it is properly monitored by the AFM and therefore avoids bonking the AFR.

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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. I am definitely curious about airflow through the intercooler. Measuring it will be a nice science project. It definitely runs better. The engine feels happier once it warms up.

On a side note, I took a maiden test drive to work yesterday. I rolled into the boost at highway speed. When I shifted from 4th to 5th a loose clamp popped off and the car died on the freeway. I've been down this road and knew exactly what it was. I brought tools with me just in case something like this happened. Unfortunately my hood latch decided to crave lubrication, and I could not get it open by myself. I end up stuck on the side of the road near downtown Detroit waiting for a coworker to give me a hand.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ugh, that gives me PTSD. . .it's happened to me on the track. Take your piping to the radiator shop and have the ends beaded. You can also use a wire wheel to roughen up the clamping area to reduce slide-ability.
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Rob the plumber  



Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 122
Location: Utica, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just flared the pipe out slightly. so it won't slip out. I should have learned that trick by now.
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