924Board.org

[chad-tanner]

I'm sure it's some really great stuff,I see alot of members here using it.Must have something to do with the "POR" and "PORSCHE" maybe some people think POR-15 is a Porsche part number

Without anymore bad jokes,I've googled around alot of the larger automotive forums,and considering this forum is very small compared to most other automotive forms(even the ones dedicated to just one car model) I have to think that this board has more Por users per capita than any group on the web.

I've seen it used on alot of cars,some of them show cars with frame off restorations.However it was only used in less conspicuous places like the frame and wheel wells.Other than here I've yet to find many complete engine compartments or maybe the entire car (except the outside sheet metal) covered in POR.some of you guys are" PORing" every damn thing.

For things inside the engine compartment like the inner fenders, shock towers,firewall,and the area where the radiator is mounted,is there really any need to use POR? Does anyone prefer,maybe a good epoxy primer for that use? I realize POR can be applied with a foam brush and make it lay "flatter" and look better,but does anyone not like how it looks?

THanks....
Chad
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77.5 Porsche 924/4.9L cadillac swap

Inspector: These brakes look completely inadequate.
Burt Munro: Well, I'm planning on going, not stopping.

[v8carreragts]

I've always used cheep soft paint brushes to apply it. I have a Super Beetle pan that I did about 12 years ago and has been sitting in my garage since. It almost looks powder coated.

You also may want to look at Bill Hirsch Automotive products "Miracle Paint." It's the same thing only less money. $32 qt vs $44.95 for POR15.

It is amazing stuff. You cannot use it without a top coat in direct sun. It breaks down from UV light.

I could take a picture of the pan if you like.

[ideola]

I am using POR15, but for specific applications, primarily individual parts that I don't want to corrode. I purchased the complete system: Marine Clean, Metal Ready, the Rust Prohibitive Paint (what most people refer to when they say POR15), Acid Etching Primer, and two different colors of their Hard Nose Paint.

I used the two prep stages on everything that I painted with their stuff. For my alu suspension components, I sprayed them with the Acid Etching Primer. Then brush painted them with two coats of the Hard Nose paint. The paint flows very well, if you work quickly, it will dry and look like it was sprayed on or powder coated. If you work too slow, it gets tacky too soon, and the finish won't be as smooth. It has a very high gloss finish.

For some of my ferrous parts, I had them Cad-DiChromated, which I just painted over. Some of them I just painted with the Black Rust Prohibitive. Others I painted with either the yellow or light grey Hard Nose paint. In all cases, the finish came out very nice. I also painted my rusty torque tube with the Rust Prohibitive paint after spritzing with the two stage prep materials. The finish on it was not as nice, because I didn't bother trying to get the metal smooth. I just scrubbed the rusty surface with a wire brush as described in the instructions, sprayed with Marine Clean, rinsed with water, sprayed with Metal Ready, rinsed with water, and painted with the Black stuff.

As for my chassis, I had it media blasted and then sealed with a Sherwin Williams equivalent to DP90. I do not want a high gloss finish on the chassis itself, I would rather keep the satin look of the primer. I did not use POR15 on the chassis. However, I have a number of areas that will need to be address, which will require grinding, welding and riveting. For these areas, I will probably brush with the Rust Prohibitive and then spray over with FLAPS primer.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[ideola]

P.S. I am still debating what to do about the engine components. I am still trying to decide between three options: rattle can with Bill Hirsch engine enamels; have them professionally powder coated; buy my own rig and do my own powder coating.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[chad-tanner]

[Scorpio]

[quote="chad-tanner"]

[B]

used it on my cross member and door handles so far - door handles were then primed and rattle canned in black satin - so far so good. inside the doors themselves - especially in those hard to get places - just don't get it on yourself - it can be difficult to get off

Sean
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1979 924 n/a
BAE turbo
5-speed snailshell

[jrrhdmust]

I use a smiliar product Eastwoods rust encapsulator. There was a Hemings Test, and it performed slightly better.

Anyway, I use it anywhere I encounter rust, and I have started using it to undercoat the car. I don't want ruberized undercoating on my car, and the eastwoods gives me the look I would like. I did the Bug 2 years ago, and my 73 Mustang about 8 both still look like I did them yesterday.
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67 Mercury Cougar XR7 under Restoration
71 VW Superbeetle Completed Resto 11/07
73 Mustang Mach 1 10 Year old restoration

[agfisher]

I too have been looking at the Eastwood products. I have been reading a lot about how it performs over the long haul and everything seems good.

The article you mention, from what I read, was paid for by Eastwood so it might be a little biased. Of course this is all Internet info so you have to take it with a grain of salt. I'm still going to give the Eastwood product line a shot.

Adam
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1977 924 N/A Martini Edition