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951 Alu Trailing Arm Bushes

 
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
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Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:02 am    Post subject: 951 Alu Trailing Arm Bushes Reply with quote

Hi,

As part of my 5-lug conversion I'm installing the 951 Alu trailing arms, as you see below. What I'm after is a part number for the bush shown in red - it's not mentioned in PET, and is a different part to the existing one I have from the looks of it.




Thanks,
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

86 951 trailing arms differ from all other year 951s.

Stands to reason that the bushings may be different as well.

Do you know what model year car the trailing arms you have came from?
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
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Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there's a paper tag on the units at home. Will check. They are the late offset ones - but not sure if that's 86 or 87.

According to PET there are 2 parts numbers, but as the bushing I highlighted is not numbered there's no way to tell if it differed between years...


Cheers,
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Late offset trailing arms are late offset trailing arms, there's no difference between NA and 951 versions. Gavin, from what I recall, your trailing arms are not from an 86 951, I seem to remember them being from a 87 or 88 944. I don't believe there's any difference at all between the bushings for any of the alu trailing arms, but I admittedly haven't had every iteration in front of me for a side-by-side comparison.

There are no OEM replacements available for those bushings. The only options I am aware of are Weltmeister Delrin ($160 per pair), Monoballs available from Racer's Edge, Elephant or Tarret ($300-$320 per pair), or possibly Prothane Polyurethane. I have not tested the latter for correct fitment.
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are dimentionally all the same regardless of model year. A harder compound was used at some point on M030 equipped cars...that would account for the 2 different part numbers.
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
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Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dan - you were of course, correct!

The tag says "1987 944S", and the stamped part numbers are:

951 331 514 06
951 331 513 06

Interestingly there is also a "86" stamped beside the part number... hmm.

Powerflex in the UK list a "REAR TRAILING ARM INNER BUSH" for 944/968

Flo-Flex also list a "Rear Axle Trailing Arm Inner Bush" which looks like:



But that looks different to what I have here - which has a metal outer covering - but maybe that's not important...?


G.
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ideola  



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gavin, those look correct to me...compare to my photos of the Delrin bits I purchased not too long ago (the white ones with metal sleeves in the upper left corner):


Regarding the metal outer covering, after you press out the old rubber bushing, you then have to remove the metal sleeve as well, which is a PITA the first time you do it. Here is the process I ended up using, as recommended to me by tjbreen over on Rennlist:
tjbreen wrote:
Take the blade out of your hacksaw, put it through the opening, and re-attach it. Use the saw to cut a line almost all the way through the steel but be very careful not to cut the aluminum. It is easy at first but then requires you to do one pull on the saw and recheck. Once you are all or just about all the way through, remove the saw and cut a slot in the steal liner, flush with the face of arm but not into the aluminum, but in line with the long slot you just cut. Then get your punch and hammer on just to the side of the short slot. The steel will break, if you have made good cuts, and the inside of the steel collar will fold towards the center of the arm and make a G shape.

Once you have this shape formed, the collar is much easier to hammer out from the opposite side without putting a buch of hammer marks into the aluminum inner diameter. If it does not break free easily, hammer the other side of the short slot with the punch and fold it towards the center, the collar should about fall out at that point.

The key to doing this easily, without damaging the soft aluminum, is to be precise and even with your cuts.

The rest of that thread for reference.
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pocketscience  



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome - thanks again!
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
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Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few other bush removing tips: http://www.powerflex.co.uk/fitting_guides.php

Dan, the 4 black bushes in your pic at the back - are they for the spring plate doo-hickey?

Cheers,
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