924Board.org

[TBrown]

Got the engine back together and fired her up today. Let her run for a few minuets to get the coolant up to temp so I could bleed all of the air out of the system. I shut it off and it was dark outside and I look in the engine bay to find a red hot cherry exhaust manifold. I took my IR thermometer and figured out it was 450 degrees. I havent timed my engine yet but its idleing at about 950 rpm. So cherry red exhaust means timings to advanced or retarded? Also Im getting white smoke out of my crankcase breather can and when I open up the valve cover cap white smoke comes out of there to. Is it just oil vaporizing or is it my fingerprints buring off the cam and cylinder walls or somthing else? Im running mobil 1 10w-30 full synth.
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Tangerine Dream- 1980 924 Turbo
Silver Surprise- 1979 924 Turbo
1977 International Scout ii
1982 Yamaha Sr185
1978 Kawasaki KZ650
1974 Honda CB360
1973 Honda CB750

[Smoothie]

Cherry red ex-manifold means late ignition timing (fuel is still burning as it passes through the manifold).

White smoke out the breather might just be condensation in the crankcase burning off. If so, it's not a problem, and should stop at some point. If it continues forever, it's something else, and it is a problem.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[ManicCycle]

You really should set the timing before leaving it to run on it's own. And watch the coolant temp. You might be overheating it if all the air isn't out of the system.

From my understanding retarded timing will cause it to run hot. Also if you run the ignition really early it also causes extra heat. A lean fuel condition would also cause the exhaust to go red. Cam timing can also effect the exhaust temp.

As long as the smoke isn't extremely heavy/thick you'll be fine.

[TBrown]

Yeah I have the timing light out right now. Whats the best way to bleed the air out of the coolant. Ive read driving around and periodically opening the screw to get the air out or warming up the engine and massaging the hoses. Whats the best way?

Also my coolant temp gauge isnt reading. Is it because there is air in the radiator at the temp gauge or what?
_________________
Tangerine Dream- 1980 924 Turbo
Silver Surprise- 1979 924 Turbo
1977 International Scout ii
1982 Yamaha Sr185
1978 Kawasaki KZ650
1974 Honda CB360
1973 Honda CB750

[ManicCycle]

The temp gauge gets it's reading from a sensor at the rear of the cylinder head. My temp gauge doesn't work at all. It could be faulty connections, a bad gauge, or most likely just a bad temp sensor.

Massaging the hoses does help speed the process up sometimes. But as long as you make sure there are no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw then your fine. Also make sure the heater is set to maxium heat.

[TBrown]

Yeah thats what I figured but every time I open the bleeder screw just coolant poors out theres no bubbles. What am I doing wrong?
_________________
Tangerine Dream- 1980 924 Turbo
Silver Surprise- 1979 924 Turbo
1977 International Scout ii
1982 Yamaha Sr185
1978 Kawasaki KZ650
1974 Honda CB360
1973 Honda CB750

[ManicCycle]

If when you first opened the bleeder screw and air came out then you most likely already got most of the air out. There may have not of been much air trapped in the system. You didn't do anything wrong. Did you find out if the timing was off?

[TBrown]

Cool, should the coolant lines exposed to be tight or squishy? Mine are squishy right now. Im working on getting some wire to extend the cord on my timing light, it wont reach underneath right now.
_________________
Tangerine Dream- 1980 924 Turbo
Silver Surprise- 1979 924 Turbo
1977 International Scout ii
1982 Yamaha Sr185
1978 Kawasaki KZ650
1974 Honda CB360
1973 Honda CB750

[ManicCycle]

The coolant hoses can be both. They will be tighter when the system is warm enough to cause pressure to build up from the expansion of things.

[9XX Girl!]

[ideola]

Just a minor tweak to the above...his car is a 931, so there is no red cap, the bleeder opening is an M10 bolt on top of the thermostat housing. The 931 doesn't have the same thermo housing hose as the NA.

Pressure bleeding is the way to go, but it's compounded on the 931 because the stock 931 expansion tank has a screw on cap instead of a more conventional spring & twist lock cap. At some point, you could switch over to a 944 expansion tank, but it's probably not worth it just to be able to pressure bleed. The procedure above should work for you...I've found the 931 isn't that difficult to bleed.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[9XX Girl!]

hmmm..... thanx ideola that will teach me to pay attention a bit more.

Common mistake though, people try to bleed with the header cap on. system starts to preasurise and the pump squirts coolent out the bleed point while air remains elsewhere.
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924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY

[9xx]

[TBrown]

Thanks guys yeah Ive been trying to bleed it when its warm so that may be the problem. I will try the method 9XX girl described when the rain lets up and I can push my car out into the drive.

Also when the cars cold it will turn over and not start so maybe my WUR is going out. To start it yesterday I had to depress the fuel distributor plunger to start the car. It could also be the reason why my exhaust manifold is getting so hot like 9xx said but I think you guys are right that its caused by the timing.

And thanks again Dan for the valves. I wouldnt have her running without you.
_________________
Tangerine Dream- 1980 924 Turbo
Silver Surprise- 1979 924 Turbo
1977 International Scout ii
1982 Yamaha Sr185
1978 Kawasaki KZ650
1974 Honda CB360
1973 Honda CB750

[ideola]