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Electrical Help : Auto Electrition?
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owenexile  



Joined: 05 Jun 2009
Posts: 333
Location: Australia , Bunbury

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:18 am    Post subject: Electrical Help : Auto Electrition? Reply with quote

Hi . Well Im in my Planning phase of Building a box for 2 subs whre my backseat is . Well Basicly i got a new Battery standing around , So i want to use that Battery as an External Electrical Source. I want the Battery To run my Amp And Car Audio on it and charge while the Car is idling/Driving from the Alternator , and when i turn of the car off i want the Battery to Cut the power of , So my Car Audio will only run of the Back Battery Whiles not taking any Power from the Front Battery Which will be my Main Battery For cranking the Engine. I was thinking connecting it up on the Ignition but I figured the Wires will be to thin , I will be Running 12mm Wires From Battery to Battery.

Summory : When i crank the Car , i want Both Batteries to Work Together , And when i turn the Car off , i dont want the Batteries Working together anymore , So say i forget my Radio On , It will only drain the Back Batery's Power , Whilst i can still use my Main Battery 2 start the car and let the back Battery Charge again.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be looking for a battery isolator - http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
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ZODIAC  



Joined: 08 Apr 2009
Posts: 342
Location: West Haven, Ct

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

why the extra battery? two subs and an amp wouldnt require that elaborate of a setup. and if the concern is the constant power to the radio you just need to wire it to a switched power source, like the ignition wire that you mentioned. you also need to consider wether or not te stock alternator can handle charging the extra battery.
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owenexile  



Joined: 05 Jun 2009
Posts: 333
Location: Australia , Bunbury

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZODIAC wrote:
why the extra battery? two subs and an amp wouldnt require that elaborate of a setup. and if the concern is the constant power to the radio you just need to wire it to a switched power source, like the ignition wire that you mentioned. you also need to consider wether or not te stock alternator can handle charging the extra battery.



I was thinking about it , But At the Moment i only got 1 Sub Installed which is a 1000Watt and a 1000 Watt Amp , Since i need to replace my Current Amp Anyways , Im going a bit bigger , Mayb 3000 Watt Amp , Then i can have twin 1000Watt Subs . And even with my Current Setup , it dimms my light when the bass kick in

Other Thought is just running a 12mm Wire Straight from Battery to Battery , and just forget about the Wire Hassle , since i got no idea what Im doing.And If i do decide to go after my 1st Plan , How would the Ignition Wire Hold that much Amps ? I Think ignition Wires is only like 5mm?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:32 am    Post subject: Re: Electrical Help : Auto Electrition? Reply with quote

owenexile wrote:
Im in my Planning phase of Building a box for 2 subs whre my backseat is. . .So say i forget my Radio On.





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DOCO  



Joined: 04 Aug 2006
Posts: 1111
Location: Keswick Ontario Canada

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

now i dont car woo yer r dats funni rite dar!!!(sory to steal yer wordage dan)
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avaconirl  



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 48
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What i do is put a relay in the charging line between the two batteries it will have to be one that can take the load of the sub. Wire it in such a way that when you switch on the ignition it switches on the relay, that way when you start the engine only then will the current travel between the batts. The other thing is to wire the radio so it works with out the ignition on.
Hope this helps.
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owenexile  



Joined: 05 Jun 2009
Posts: 333
Location: Australia , Bunbury

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

avaconirl wrote:
What i do is put a relay in the charging line between the two batteries it will have to be one that can take the load of the sub. Wire it in such a way that when you switch on the ignition it switches on the relay, that way when you start the engine only then will the current travel between the batts. The other thing is to wire the radio so it works with out the ignition on.
Hope this helps.


Thanks Alot for that , At the Moment my radio already works without switching on the Ignition.

Again , Thanks ALOT!!
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9XX Girl!  



Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Posts: 1617
Location: Cornish Riviera SW England

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZODIAC wrote:
why the extra battery? two subs and an amp wouldnt require that elaborate of a setup.


Subs can pull a lot of current but only for short durations (inrush current to get those large voice coils moving). Use a big enough amp and you can see your lights dim on the bass notes. The way to go is a big One farad Capacitor mounted close to the amp an keep the speaker leads short. Nice and light

but if you must go heavy and put all that lead and copper in your car....

avaconirl wrote:
......put a relay in the charging line between the two batteries it will have to be one that can take the load of the sub. Wire it in such a way that when you switch on the ignition it switches on the relay, that way when you start the engine only then will the current travel between the batts. The other thing is to wire the radio so it works with out the ignition on.


Its called a "split relay charger". used on motor homes and boats. when your engine is stopped you can only flatten one battery leaving one good one for starting. You can get um as a kit from a caravan shop or a good chandlery. Only you wire it to both the ignition and your red battery charge light. The relay closes and parallels the batteries ONLY when your ignition is on AND your battery light is off. That way, when your engine isn't running your radio and amps drain only your auxiliary battery and your engine battery is left to run your starter motor and ignition system etc for re-startring. Once you start the engine AND the battery charge light goes out, your batteries get connected in parallel and thus both get current from the same alternator.

Although if you listen carefully you can hear good advice from Rasta Monsta
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 3000 watt amp in a car and your sitting within 3 feet of the output.

If you looking to do irreparable ear damage your on the right track. I know your going to enjoy spending time with an ear specialist in the future so you can possibly hear something with a hearing aid. when you get a bit older .

Why do you suppose workers compensation mandates ear protection in loud environments ? Answer... so workers don't become deaf.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As with mechanical principles, laws of physics and even what`s good taste, the typical ricer kid has absolutely no idea WTF he is talking about when it comes to audio. And thats before the gross exaggeration of BS specifications by even so called "reputable" brands, but particularly by Chinese imports. Bigger is better, 3KW is thrice as loud as 1KW, more subs is cooler, Doof Doof Doof, WTF did U say, eh?

Even if a 1KW amp is rated accurately using PMPO or PMP, or POP(which is BS & impossible to quantify) the RMS value is around a quarter of that at best. In practice it is a small fraction of the claimed output and then only for milliseconds at the absolute peak of the waveform and measured between negative & positive peaks. Basic maths will illustrate that the maximum possible peak output from a direct 14V supply into 4 ohms is less than 50W. The similar PMP output of most reasonable head units.

To obtain more power than this the voltage needs to be increased by a DC - DC inverter that "real amps" have. A top line unit may reach 90% efficiency at a low duty cycle, such as a varying waveform like most music. Try feeding a continuous sine wave into any amp while measuring output (on a dummy load) and the time the amp survives.

Our ears perceive sound on a logarithmic scale, same as on what the dB unit of COMPARATIVE measurement is based. Dismissing BS power ratings, a 3W amp, feeding the same speaker, will just sound a little louder than a 1W amp. Theoretically a four fold increase in genuine output power is needed for the sound to appear twice as loud. That`s for perfect hearing, those with diminished hearing from exposure to high SPLs will need substantially more.

On the dB scale, every increase of 3dB is a doubling of power, while an increase of 10 (ie. 80 to 90) relates to 10 times the power. So with the same power, a speaker of 90dB/Wm (measured 1W @ 1 meter) will sound twice as loud as a 87dB/Wm.

Here`s some basic reading, google will provide all you don`t necessarily want.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power

Rasta has a very valid point. My suggestion if you really want to damage your ears with a SPL of 120dB+ is to simply use headphones. That way others hearing is not affected nor the general community`environment. It will save money, weight, wiring hassles, and fines from the police. No need for a battery relay either.

Now don`t misunderstand me. I like loud music, I have a sub, although used very little due to weight, 8" woofers and a 500W RMS amp.

I also have damaged hearing and speak from experience. Too late now to realize that what the oldies said about loud music was actually true. Life is a learning experience.
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Electrical Help : Auto Electrition? Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
owenexile wrote:
Im in my Planning phase of Building a box for 2 subs whre my backseat is. . .So say i forget my Radio On.






Not too often I LOL but that one did it.
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owenexile  



Joined: 05 Jun 2009
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Location: Australia , Bunbury

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC wrote:
As with mechanical principles, .... Life is a learning experience.

Thanks for tat RC , The idea for the 3k Watt Amp is only to run the second Sub , At the moment my 1k Watt Amp can barely run the 1k Watt Sub , it gets warm if on full blast in like 10 min , thats why im going with 3K watt amp so it will be easy to run 1K watt Subs.

And its not only for Going all out evrytime , we got a car Audio Show in a couple of months here down in the South , And i wana go show my car .
and its also for that "Wow" factor when some guy shows of his Audio then il just show him the "WoW" factor of mine
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mikebola  



Joined: 07 Sep 2009
Posts: 361
Location: Parkside, PA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the 100w amp I run for my front channels ran pretty hot because I placed it near the lower heating ducts in my Lancer, but I'm only running 40 wpc mids with it (at the right ohm rating). What I did was wired a PC fan in there to keep it cool.
Do you have the correctly rated speaker for your amp? I mean, that's usually why it overheats. if you're using a 2 ohm speaker on a 4 ohm amp, it'll be drawing too much current and run hotter. I was just recently running my 3 ohm RTR speakers across an 8 ohm amp (my lovely pioneer SA8500 series one) and it started smoking after a few hours of record playing
My 200 watt Audiobahn amp gets warm to the touch, but you can still TOUCH it when it's playing the 200 watt 8" kicker sub I'm running. The sub's rated at 4 ohm, so I set the amp to run a single speaker at 4 ohms. if I used a 2 ohm speaker, it would get hot enough to scramble eggs on it. or possibly catch fire.
Also..... running two subs in your tiny little cabin won't make your system sound any better. in fact, it'll likely sound horrible. you need to balance out your audio levels to make anything sound even vaguely appealing. I have a 450 watt sub in my media room coupled with a pair of Monitor Audio speakers, and I have to set it extremely low because the speakers sound so clean and rich at lower volumes that the loud, punchy bass takes away from the smooth treble. it's doubly true in a car, where you can't even effectively direct your mid and high speakers towards your head...
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924aussie  



Joined: 02 Feb 2006
Posts: 1009
Location: Chinchilla Queensland Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speakers arent the only thing that causes deafness, I need hearing aids after working in a Computer Server room environment for many, many years. Industrial deafness....

Back to your problem, look at 4WD stores and Jaycar for duel battery setups.

Maybe you just want to put them underneath and sound like a V8

Alan
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