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crgm101
Joined: 19 Oct 2010 Posts: 5 Location: naples,florida
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:28 am Post subject: loud pop |
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i have a very loud pop coming out of my front right tire under heavy breaking or going over larger bumps. i was told its probably a strut but it feels like the wheel shifts when it pops while breaking. oh and it grinds and pops every time i back up and brake even really slow. looking for your opinions and if it is the strut the cheapest place to get them and would a insert work my mechanic said he could install a insert since i thought no one did that anymore. oh and it sat for 10 years before i bought it in December and yes i did the foes. i have owned this car for 4 months and definitely don't feel like a newb anymore. _________________ new porsche owner |
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am Post subject: |
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Your struts are rebuildable (the take inserts). You can go cheap (KYB - short lived) medium (Bilstein - great handling but a tad harsh) or expensive (Koni Sport - stiff, adjustable, and beautifully smooth. . .some longevity complaints). _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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edredas

Joined: 09 Dec 2004 Posts: 861 Location: Charlotte, NC
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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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Check your ball Joints. _________________ '84 944 -White, Brown interior
'84 944 -Red, Automatic
'86 944 -Garnet, Fully loaded, Koni suspension
'87 924S -Red, 300hp 951 swap
'87 924S -Red, Project Car
'88 924S -Red, Daily Driver |
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Joes924Racer

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 11964 Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:27 am Post subject: |
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whee. bearings.. _________________ 1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo. |
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gohim
Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:30 am Post subject: |
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You don't want cheap.
You want the problrm fixed properly at the most reasonable price.
If you don't have the moeny to pay someone competent to make proper repairs, then you will have to get off your ass, and make the repairs yourself.
I say repairs, because your car is probably going to need more than a single part part replaced to cure the problem. Your "new" car is your twenty years old regardless of the miles or lack of mies on it. Parts age whether the car was driven or not, and some parts age badly when a car is not driven.
The popping and grinding could be two separate issues, requiring different parts to be replaced.
A grinding noise at the front, combined with a popping noise could be worn-out brake pads, and worn rotors, or brake caliper slide pins that need lubrication, or wheel bearings in need of repacking with grease, or replacement, or loose or bent brake dust shields.
A popping noise when hitting a bump could be collapsed upper strut mounts in need or replacement, or bad struts, or springs that are not seated properly in the upper or lower spring perches, or bad swaybar bushings, or bad lower control arm bushings.
The front suspension and brakes need attention occasionally, just like the front of the engine (and the foes). Just not as often. There parts I've indentified are easily cleaned, lubricated or inspected. I would start by lifting the front of the car onto jackstands, and removing the wheels for a through inspection. Before removing the front wheels, give them a spin and listen for the grinding you described. If you hear it, find and fix it, before moving on to an inspection of the suspension. The strut mounts, and lower control arms bushings (and possibly the swaybar bushings) will be shot, and replacement will be necessary. The lower control arm bushings need to be pressed on and off the control arms. Removing the control arms, and taking them to a competent shop is the best way to replace these bushings, unless you have a press, or a screw beased balljoint/cv joint replacement tool set (Harbor Freight would be the least expensive place to buy the tool set necessary at $45-$80), or you might be able to boorow something that will work from a auto parts store with a free tool rent program. You will also need a spring compressor to remove the front springs to replace the struts, or the strut mounts (also available from store with a tool loan program). |
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bcblase

Joined: 23 Oct 2007 Posts: 574 Location: Winchester, VA
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:51 am Post subject: |
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It could be any number of things:
1. Sway bar mount/bushing
2. Control arm bushing
3. Ball joint or tie rod end
4. Wheel bearing
5. Upper strut mount - (my vote)
6. Strut or spring failure
If you mess with any of this yourself, get the front end re-aligned. _________________ 1987 Porsche 924S - track toy
1986 Mercedes 190E 2.3-16v - autocross
2007 F-150 5.4L Lariat Supercrew - tow beast
1994 Volvo 850 Race Wagon - 24 Hours of Lemons Car
2001 BMW 325xi - daily driver |
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joecitizennn

Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2096 Location: no mans land
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:55 am Post subject: |
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In agreement with all the above. One thing I did not see mentioned that I would check is the condition of the caliper. Make sure the caliper bolts are tight and the floating mechanism is not broken. _________________ 87 924s
88 924SE gone
447 hp cgt clone
87 924S gone
84 944 sold
83 944 sold
89 turbo S LSD, ABS etc
86 951 white rocket
85 944 sport everything.
84 944 sold.
87 944 sold |
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