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Cut WG line for boost controller?

 
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:17 am    Post subject: Cut WG line for boost controller? Reply with quote

I'm kind of a wuss and don't want to cut the WG actuator line for a MBC. The fittings appear to be metric and not NPT. Is there anything I can use to install the MBC without cutting the WG line?

I was thinking maybe I could use an old fuel line from a CIS car cut in half to install the MBC.

Or should I just cut the damn thing already?

KC
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just cut it. When your car is ready for Concourse, you can have it rebuilt by any competent hose shop.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I slapped this together in the garage tonight. Couldn't get it to work consistently on the bench. I think I might bite the bullet and get a real one like yours. Does the boost "T" come with smaller diameter barbs? It looks like you had to adapt the WG line to a smaller diameter hose.

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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why cut a perfectly good stock part, especially one that is NLA (even if it can be repaired later by a competent hose shop).

A better solution is to get one of these, put it between the charge tube and the boost cutoff switch, and plumb the vent line of the controller to the top of the wastegate. Remove the mushroom style vent port up top and use one of these with a standard 12mm banjo bolt.

Related reading.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read that whole thread and I prefer the method of applying pressure to the top of the wastegate (failsafe) but I'm under the impression that it's extremely annoying/difficult to get to the top of the WG. I would have to remove the WG, yes? I have to admit I didn't crawl under the car to check it out.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you do have to remove the wastegate. Remove the j-pipe (two nuts on mani and four nuts on wastegate). Unbolt the wastegate from the dump pipe (four nuts). Disconnect the control line (one banjo bolt). Unbolt the torque-tube-mounted bracket (two nuts).

Of course, if you have old nasty rusty hardware, that always adds to the fun. It does require a little bit of maneuvering to wiggle the wastegate out once you have it loose, but it's really not that bad of a job.

Do you have any interest in an in-cabin boost controller???
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Last edited by ideola on Thu Sep 29, 2011 10:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Do you have any interest in an in-cabin boost controller???


I don't think so. It means more work getting the lines into the car somewhere and I can't imagine where. I do know I don't like the "plumbing supply" look of the DIY controller under the hood so i'm not going to use it.



Honestly, I might just leave it as-is for now. This is seeming like a lot of work for a few HP. I already wasted 17 bucks and and 2 hours. I just want to bring it up to euro spec for now. Then next year add water injection and kick it up just a touch more. Maybe I'll goof with it over the winter, I don't want the car to be down because I snapped off a rusted stud or something.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kcoyle wrote:
I would have to remove the WG, yes?


A rough job indeed, and can be quite costly if you replace studs, nuts, and gaskets throughout (highly recommended). BUT. . .if the condition of the diaphragm is unknown, it is also wise to refurb it.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan,

Did this work for you to avoid cutting the line?

"Thanks Min! I ordered one each of the M12x1.5-to-1/8NPT and M14x1.5-to-1/8NPT bushings from egauges.com. There is actually a male-to-male M14-to-M12 reducer between the actuator line and the charge tube, so both sizes are needed. I'll then pick up some cheap 1/8" NPT to 1/4" hose barb fittings from the local hardware."
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.

Earlier I had ordered the adapter bushings that Min referenced, but decide it was a cleaner install to go on the cutoff switch side, plus I want the extra protection of plumbing the vent line back to the top of the wastegate and not interrupting the stock control line function.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks. I will steal that idea then and add Rasta's boost "T"
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