924Board.org

[BionicBalls]

So when I start the car up in the morning, it starts up no problem and runs alright for about 45 seconds (enough time for me to back out and get to the first speed bump in my apt. complex). After this point, it will stall if I come to an idle. I have to use all three pedals to keep it from stalling because if it stalls enough times (usually 3-4 times) it becomes near impossible to crank back up unless I let it sit for a couple hours. There is a "dead" stop in the pedal where if I hit it, the car will gargle like the A/F ratio is way off. If I let off it'll go away and if I press harder, it'll work it's way through it.

After I make it to work, I'll come back out 11 hours later to go home and the car will crank right up and run like a champ all the way home with no threat of stalling. I can put the pedal anywhere and the car pulls.

I'm thinking maybe it's something to do with temp? Since after sitting for 11 hours leaving work, I should be facing the same cold start situation that I'm facing in the morning.

Any ideas?

One more piece to the puzzle: the alternator will squel for 2-3 seconds first thing in the morning, but no other time.
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1980 924 NA
1982 931

[Ozzie]

tune it up when its hot.
the WUR drops out after about 30-45 seconds and if it is cold the revs at idle will drop and nearly stall.
could be your idle is too low or mixture is too lean.

tighten your belt.
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

[Rasta Monsta]

Hmm, I wonder if you have tested WUR function with a CIS tester and then eliminated all vaccuum leaks?
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[Paul]

Nah that's always the last resort, replace everything first.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[BionicBalls]

^^ Thats funny.

I'm thinking I do need to tune it in when it's hot. I've had a question about this Gunson Gastester. Haynes says to set the CO level to 0.5 before the cat. That is not really an option for me, so does anybody know what I should set it to using the gastester at the tailpipe? Also, should I have the frequency valve disconnected when I set it?

I would test the WUR pressure, but I don't have the pressure tester with me ATM. When I get some time I can drive up to the shop and test it out. But unfortunately right now spare time is hard to come by. I'm working full time, got a full time internship, and have a summer class starting Monday.

I replaced all the lines with silicone hoses, but I haven't gotten to the hoses under the dash yet so a vacuum leak is a possibility.

Alternator is adjusted all the way out, and the belt is tight. I even have an wider belt than is called for so that I can have more surface area. It's a rebuilt alternator (voltage regulator blew out on the last one).
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1980 924 NA
1982 931

[BionicBalls]

I cleaned up my AAV with some Q-tips and adjusted it open some more. Problem seems to be fixed.
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1980 924 NA
1982 931

[Rasta Monsta]

[dubrict]

A couple weeks ago mine was stalling whenever I went into neutral as well. I puzzled over it for way too long before I noticed part of the air intake piping had come apart

[BionicBalls]

Tested the pressures today.

Cold: Was 30 lbs @ 80F
I adjusted it to 26 lbs @ 80F

Hot: 50 lbs

System: 68 lbs

Number seem good to me. The cold control pressure was a little outside the range so I filed the shim down a bit and got the pressure to within range.

I then unplugged the O2 sensor and clamped the charcoal canister. Hooked up the Gunson gastester and set it to 2.0. The car ran like shit though, so I adjusted it by ear and feel.
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1980 924 NA
1982 931