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Exhaust keeps breaking

 
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 642
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:50 am    Post subject: Exhaust keeps breaking Reply with quote

My exhaust keeps breaking the welds loose at the catalytic converter. I've got headers and 2.25" stainless steel pipe all the way back. Magnaflow Hi flow cat and a flowmaster super 44 muffler.

I've got some popping in my exhaust when I decelerate. I'm pretty sure this is causing the welds to break loose.

I've got a flex pipe on the way, think this will absorb the vibrations caused by the exhaust popping?

I think the popping will lessen as soon as I set the A:F ratio correctly.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No part of the exhaust system is attached to the body, correct? Are all your hangers from the CAT back intact?
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
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Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not attached to the body at any point. All the hangers are intact and in good condition. That's what makes this so frustrating.
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how are your motor mounts then?
Stu
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to try a different muffler shop?
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is freakin amazing that the welds are breakin maybe adjust the afm
so it dont pop..
Good luck with the flex pipe.Ill bet its the fix.
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popping is probably from air leaking into the system from poorly sealed pipes/joints.

Try adding another hanger near the front of the exhaust and of course the flex coupling will help quite a bit.

Bad motor mounts will exacerbate the vibrations and make the exhaust more prone to cracking and breaking.
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 642
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I adjusted the throttle body adjustment screw to let more air in and it has reduced the popping significantly. I had been told that the popping was due to the lack of back pressure from having headers and a larger exhaust piping. true? I'll be adding the flex pipe in and I'll see if I can't add another hanger as well.

Every time I've had a bad motor mount on a car before, I could feel the engine vibrating. That's not happening here, engine feels smooth. I Visually inspected the driver's side mount and it's not cracked or broken. The passenger side one is a shock type mount, how would I go about checking it?
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DOCO  



Joined: 04 Aug 2006
Posts: 1111
Location: Keswick Ontario Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you need 2 people one to drive car and one to hang on the hood...Just kidding!!apply parking brake,put car in first and let out clutch and have other helper look at mount and see if its sperated,put in reverse for other side edit ;if its automatic just brake torque in fwd and reverse
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of filler is your stainless exhaust system being welded with?

Min
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
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Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm tired of dealing with the muffler shop so today I did it myself. I unbolted the center section of my exhaust. I ground down all the welds and started from scratch. I cut out a section and fit in the flex pipe. Re-welded the cat. Bought a new header gasket and exhaust donut.

I removed the o2 sensor and set the A/F ratio there using my gunson. Still some popping, but alot less.

I've got a mig welder and I use what ever wire my dad buys for it. It is some good stuff. We bought some cheap shit once before, and it fed poorly, got poor penetration and ugly welds no matter how slow we fed it.

So far everything is sounding good, I'll report back in a week.

New problem is a pinhole in the seam of my overflow tank that's spraying a small bit of coolant everywhere. Tried plastic welding it, but it's not containing it. I'm going to try one more time, but may have to just replace it.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BionicBalls wrote:
I've got a mig welder and I use what ever wire my dad buys for it. It is some good stuff. We bought some cheap shit once before, and it fed poorly, got poor penetration and ugly welds no matter how slow we fed it.


If you just welded stainless steel pipe with regular steel filler, then uh you may have some issues.

Stainless steel welding would require a matching filler material, typically a stainless steel alloy.

Min
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
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Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes Sense. I'll look into it. Hopefully everything holds though.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original exhaust used a hanger at the rear end of the downpipe that supports the downpipe and the front of the cat (and there was an adapter between the downpipe and the cat).

Does your header have that hanger? If not, the exhaust would probably break where you descibe over and over again.
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
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Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My header does not have a hanger. That is going to be the next thing I do even if the exhaust doesn't break open again.

Thanks for the info gohim.
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