924Board.org

[Rabbit83]

First off, I searched! All the posts on the How-to, searched multiple different terms but came up empty handed.

I'm struggling getting my 77 924 running properly. Turns out the valve timing was 5 teeth off! So I am in the process of replacing the belt and I thought I would adjust the valves while I was at it.

I pulled the valve cover, placed the cam on TDC. Lined up the pointer and "dot" and by the position of the cam lobes I was on TDC.

I rotated the lifter to access the 2.5MM allen adjustment screw but when turn the screw it feels like its under spring tension. I would move it and it would spring back. If I moved it a bit more then I would have no clearance between the valve and the lifter. When I rotate the allen back the other way it would "pop" back into its original position.

I quit there, I tried cylinders 1 and 2. I do not want to damage anything and although the Hayes manual shows the proper clearance its vague on deatils.

I have adjusted valves on old aircooled VWs but never on the 924, so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
_________________
1977 Porsche 924
1987.5 Audi Coupe GT Special Build
1992 Passat Wagon

[SilverGhost]

There's a good description by emoore924 in the thread
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?p=306277

Google is much better for searching than the board's search function. Include site:924board.org in the search terms and it'll search only this.
_________________
"Priscilla" 1981 924 NA RoW auto, metallic blue

[Rabbit83]

Thanks SilverGhost! I will be sure to use the Google function in the future.

Is it safe to assume that turning the adjustment screw in (clockwise) will tighten the adjustment and out (counter clockwise) with loosen them?

All of them appear to be loose and I also noticed that on some of them the adjustment screw is recessed in the the slot while on others its nearly flush with the outer edge of the lifter. Is this normal?
_________________
1977 Porsche 924
1987.5 Audi Coupe GT Special Build
1992 Passat Wagon

[tyfighter123]

Rabbit welcome aboard! For your valve clearance adjustment you need to get a biger turn on the screw. The screw is tapered so when you turn it, it will come into contact with the valve making it want to snap back into place. Everything you are describing is normal just get a bigger turn on the screw and then two more turns and it will click or snap into location. Good luck.
_________________
Porsche 924 1977 N/A
Mustang GT/CS 2007
Porsche 924S 1987 (parts car)(cut up and recycled)
Porsche 911S 1976
Porsche 931 1980
Porsche 931 1980 (parts car)

[SilverGhost]

Rabbit both your questions are answered in the thread
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=35483
which I found using Google as described in my last post.
To summarise,
- clockwise reduces clearance
- to ensure thread engagement both ends, adjustment screw thickness must be appropriate for state of wear of the particular cam lobe/valve/valve seat; several thicknesses are available.
Good luck.
_________________
"Priscilla" 1981 924 NA RoW auto, metallic blue

[Rabbit83]

Thanks again SilverGhost!

Just finished up the valve adjustment, I went with a little loose over a little tight. Turned it over twice and rechecked.

Next weekend I will do the timing belt. I still for the life of me understand how the valve timing went 5 teeth out! (Edit: its 3 1/2 teeth off)

I've gotten more than I bargined for with this car. I was told that it was a daily driver until the fuel pump quit. I put a fuel pump on it and repaired numerous other things and it still wasnt right. Thats when I checked the timing. If I cant get it running correctly after the valve adjustment and timing I may cut my losses and sell it!
_________________
1977 Porsche 924
1987.5 Audi Coupe GT Special Build
1992 Passat Wagon