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Ignition coil puking...

 
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 12:53 pm    Post subject: Ignition coil puking... Reply with quote

So I spent the day troubleshooting my cooling fan problem. And then drove home. After an hour at home I went out and put in a new intake boot. Test drove it, parked it, put the ignition on and listened to music for 45 minutes to an hour.

Then I smell this burning smell....

Turned the ignition off, popped the hood, and see (and hear) my ignition coil puking black sludge out the top.

So my question is: What the F*ck just happened to my ignition?!?

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macBdog  



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 1111
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha what part of "left the ignition on for 45 minutes" tipped you off? You overheated your ignition coil... In normal operation it should never be excited for that long.
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really? When I do the same thing in newer cars the coil doesn't overheat. Just an old car thing?

Anyways, I don't know much about ignition coils...

I'm guessing I can't drive my car until i get a new one?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. Time for a new coil.

Here's description from another site:
Quote:
The coil is overheating because you are pulling to much juice through it's primary.

The circuit is straight power from the ignition to one side of the coil primary. The other side of the coil primary goes to the points and then to ground. So when the ignition is on and the points are closed, juice flows through the coil to ground.

When the points open they interrupt this flow on the ground side causing the high voltage spike in the coil secondary windings that is then routed to the plugs to make sparks. The condensor is parallel to the points just to suppress arcing when the points open.

If you sit with the ignition on, engine not running and points closed, there will be a constant flow of juice through the coil primary, which can overheat it.


Another lesson learned of the joys of old car ownership (79-onward 924s didn't have the points-based ignition that your early car is blessed with!)
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoot...

Well I guess I won't be doing that again!

Thanks guys, don't know where I'd be without this board
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your ignition switch should have a "key in" position that powers certain accessories just by putting the key IN to the cylinder, but not turning it. Once you turn it, the ignition circuit is activated, and of course, when you engage it, the starter kicks in until you release.

Point being, if your radio is wired in correctly (and by correct, I mean the way it was from the factory), you should be able to have it on without turning the key at all, thereby avoiding the meltdown. After you get your coil fixed, you should look into the radio wiring.
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do.

Your website doesn't supply coils does it? I looked but couldnt find them outside of the tune up kits
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, we can get that for you. PM on it's way.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the early ROW cars that have points; his should have electronic ignition.

Same principle applies, except it's through a transistor rather than points.

Don't have the key in the run position unless the engine is running! And that's not just for cars of that vintage; the same is true in much more modern cars as well.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

!tom wrote:
It's the early ROW cars that have points; his should have electronic ignition.


Hmmm. PET indicates breaker points for all early cars...it doesn't show that the US cars had a different setup. Not that PET hasn't been known to have inaccuracies...
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macBdog  



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 1111
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen plenty of cars with an aftermarket radio wired in to the wrong circuit so the ignition has to be on for the radio to work.

To add confusion to the matter, people use the turn of phrase "leave the ignition on" when they mean the accessories circuit.
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1979 931 with a 350 chev
1973 911E with EFI
p-talk wrote:
I'm still convinced the word 'Porsche' makes people crazy in all kinds of ways
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