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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 4:40 pm    Post subject: JUST KIDDING! Reply with quote

So I took the porsche for a nice long drive tonight and there's absolutely no way I'm selling it.

Here are some reasons that it's better than the jetta:

It runs better
It drives better
It looks better
It feels better
It turns heads
It's something special and hard to find
The jetta is a boring car
The jetta has 378000 kilometers
The jetta has only 68hp
The jetta smells funny inside

etc...


Now that i'm keeping the porsche and will be daily driving it sometime soon (once I've sold the jetta and figured some stuff out)

I need some help from the board!!

I think I have abnormally high crankcase pressure.
After arriving home tonight I did the usual look under the hood. And as usual there was oil running down from the dipstick hole and on to the ground...

I feel like this high pressure had something to do with my blowout in june.

My breather seems to be breathing properly so I'm not sure why there would be so much pressure that oil comes out from under the dipstick...

My cooling fan doesn't work. The thermo switch works fine and the fan motor works fine as well. The fan fuse is also A-ok.
Should I just wire it to a manual switch in the cabin that connects the fan directly to the battery?

I'm also looking for some sunroof and headliner components. Anybody selling?
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Kens_74_911s  



Joined: 01 Mar 2011
Posts: 529
Location: Southern Pines , North Carolina USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:19 pm    Post subject: Headliner and S/roof Reply with quote

Sent you a PM
K
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9107
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

High pressure in crankcase... that comes from blowby, from poor ring sealing. If the engine's recently refreshed, that'd typically indicate improper ring seating... if it's not fresh, then ring wear.

We regularly have some leakage from the dipstick hole on our racecar. But mainly ignore it, since it's modest, doesn't actually lose much oil, and won't be enough to make a mess on track.

Make sure the breather hose doesn't have a kink in it, etc.

Cooling fan operation: either you don't have power to the fan, or a ground for the temp switch. If you short out the switch, the fan doesn't run, correct? That's with ign on, BTW...
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My cooling fan doesn't work. The thermo switch works fine and the fan motor works fine as well. The fan fuse is also A-ok.
(1) If you haven't already done so, check the relay (BATT-Fuse-T30; T85-GND; T87-Trigger; T86-Out +12V); there should be no continuity between power circuit terminals.
(2) Check the two grounds: brown wire near fuse-relay board and brown wire near left headlight.
(3) Check two wire connectors behind instrument cluster: 1 terminal 2 pole red/yellow to black wire and 2 terminal 2 pole green to blue wire.
(4) Check wire connections on fuse relay board: plug H and plug G terminal 7 (See Hanes '76-'80 Fig. 12.3 for locations).
If everything looks OK so far,
(5) Recheck fuse with voltmeter or twist in socket in case of oxidation at connection, and
(6) If the thermo switch is, as you state, OK, check to see if the thermostat is allowing the coolant to warm up to the thermo switch's cut-in temperature (usually around 95C, I think).
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
High pressure in crankcase... that comes from blowby, from poor ring sealing. If the engine's recently refreshed, that'd typically indicate improper ring seating... if it's not fresh, then ring wear.

We regularly have some leakage from the dipstick hole on our racecar. But mainly ignore it, since it's modest, doesn't actually lose much oil, and won't be enough to make a mess on track.

Make sure the breather hose doesn't have a kink in it, etc.

Cooling fan operation: either you don't have power to the fan, or a ground for the temp switch. If you short out the switch, the fan doesn't run, correct? That's with ign on, BTW...


Correct. With ignition on if I short out the temp switch the fan doesn't turn on.
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

larchie wrote:
Quote:
My cooling fan doesn't work. The thermo switch works fine and the fan motor works fine as well. The fan fuse is also A-ok.
(1) If you haven't already done so, check the relay (BATT-Fuse-T30; T85-GND; T87-Trigger; T86-Out +12V); there should be no continuity between power circuit terminals.
(2) Check the two grounds: brown wire near fuse-relay board and brown wire near left headlight.
(3) Check two wire connectors behind instrument cluster: 1 terminal 2 pole red/yellow to black wire and 2 terminal 2 pole green to blue wire.
(4) Check wire connections on fuse relay board: plug H and plug G terminal 7 (See Hanes '76-'80 Fig. 12.3 for locations).
If everything looks OK so far,
(5) Recheck fuse with voltmeter or twist in socket in case of oxidation at connection, and
(6) If the thermo switch is, as you state, OK, check to see if the thermostat is allowing the coolant to warm up to the thermo switch's cut-in temperature (usually around 95C, I think).



Awesome thanks man. I'll try to decipher all that and do some tests!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The breather hoses on the NA cars have a restrictor in them. From what I understand, it's a wooden plug with a small hole drilled thru it. It's possible that your restrictor is blocked, and it's also possible that your crankcase breather attachment is clogged, both of which could contribute to excessive pressure.

It would at least be worth a try to remove the bleeder line and check to make sure the restrictor is intact and passing air; and then to back flush the breather attachment on the block. Most guys use gasoline to do this...drain the oil, leave the drain plug out, put a catch tray under the oil pan and flush thru the breather thoroughly. Make sure you give the gasoline time to evaporate out of the oil pan before refilling the oil. You don't want contaminated oil on your bearings.
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xanderdeg  



Joined: 08 Jul 2012
Posts: 286
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I set up a new breather hose a while back that vents to atmosphere instead of to the airbox. I've put my hand in front of it while the engine is running and there seems to be good flow through the breather. Should I still flush the breather attachment just to make sure its venting enough?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your problem may be that you don't have the restrictor in there, and that the way you currently have things plumbed, you have insufficient vacuum. So you may not really have an issue with crankcase pressure.

Here is an entertaining and informative read on the subject:
Rasta, you suck, and you owe me $100.

I would suggest trying to re-plumb things back the way the were from the factory (even if you have to fabricate a restrictor and line) before you do anything else.
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tyfighter123  



Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 551
Location: Colorado

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the point of the restrictor? I don't have one on mine. What would I gain from adding it?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I've been able to distill from the above threads (or possibly those linked to that thread) is that the restrictor and small hole perform the same basic function as the air-oil separator on the 931; the restrictor apparently allows vapor to be drawn into the airbox (by negative pressure) thru the tiny hole drilled into it, while not allowing the larger oil droplets to be pulled thru (they presumably precipitate out and back into the crankcase thru the breather attachment on the block).
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