924Board.org

[jdub]

Results:
system pressure seems good at aroun 4.9 bar

COLD pressure (with plug disconnected from WUR and tester valve opened):
SAME as system pressure 4.9 bar when pump is on, then drops to 3 when pump is off

(from there, seems to drop to about 2 bar in 10 min and then stays pretty steady)

Warm- (wur plug connected- but car not heated up of course)
SAME results as cold

Quick Q: So is this totally the WUR / Control Pressure Regulator ?

Update:
Seems like the wires/plug going to the WUR has 9 volts going to one spade
Same with the auxilary air valve plug (ignition on, car not warm)

(i'm the one with the super hard starting and about 5 minutes of rough idling, in 80 degrees temps outside, after sitting a few hrs, no leaking injectors, fuel supply is strong)

Thanks!!
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81 924 non-turbo

[ThomasJoseph315]

Check you grounds to the body-engine-ignition-coil-cluster under the dash. I am not sure where the ground for that thermo-switch ends up, I'd have to look at a diagram. But you might have a week ground if it's only 9volts. If you look into this you may get a faster warm up. Sounds like your getting the warm up from the engine it's self which is why it's taking a long time.

Nice to see it's running

[jdub]

interesting tom,
anyone know where grounds to the thermo time switches end up so ican trace it?
under dash area seems griunded fine after tests.

back to the WUR issue- my COLD pressure test results shiuld be unrelated to a weak ground since the plugs are removed anywyays.?
tgere should still be a lesser Bar when changing from system pressure to open the valve and doing the cold pressure.
?
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81 924 non-turbo

[larchie]

[jdub]

okay ihave the wur pulled, and remembered the "layers" of little screen filters, and the finer they get, the more clogged they were.
i am now measuring resist across 2 terminals.
10.4 ohms
i jumped the terminals directly from battery, 12v . the resistance then was around 9.4 after a couple min.
ps- the Haynes says like 15. i think ?


i do beleive i was holding 2.4 bar after system pressure test with valve clise, for 20 or more min
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81 924 non-turbo

[jdub]

ps. The plug for wur is providing 11.4v when key is on, reading both terminals with my dmm, - and +

thanks
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81 924 non-turbo

[jdub]

car just fired up nice right now- after reinstalling WUR !!! maybe it was the inner finer screens brushed clean ? thanks Tom- or my marvel mystery oil inside the WUR circle disc area (lookin to seal up any possible keak in there at that round seal.

i now have to give it a couple hrs of sittig and see.

thanks for the help - fingers crossed!
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81 924 non-turbo

[larchie]

These data look good. I guess I'm not understanding exactly how you are testing. Could you explain a little more the following?

[larchie]

Looks like our posts got just crossed. Looks like the WUR is OK.

[jdub]

HI
I may have done it wrong from what you were asking above.

It sounds like the pressure testing is to be done with car running?

I did the gauge tests with just the pump running, and like this:

1. system pressure (closed valve on my tester line heading towards WUR, so the pressure regulator isn't involved)
5 bar

2. cold - unplugged WUR, opened the valve on my test line, ran pump,

same bar - about 5

3. same thing with plugged in WUR


About 2.5 bar overall pressure after sitting an hour

THanks!
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81 924 non-turbo

[larchie]

I didn't get a clear picture of what the conditions were when you ran these tests, so I'm going to try to put them in my own words:

Test 1 for system pressure: (a) The engine was cold. The electrical connectors from the warm-up regulator and the auxiliary-air device were disconnected. The fuel pump was run and air was bled out of the system at the gauge by opening and closing the valve several times. (b) The gauge valve was closed, and the fuel pump run and you read 5 bar.
{Comment: this is OK.}

Test 2 for cold -control pressure: (a) The engine was cold and the warm-up regulator wasn't hot to touch. The electrical connection to the warm-up regulator remained disconnected. (b) The fuel pump was run and the gauge value was opened so fuel should have been sent to the warm-up regulator. You measured 5 bar.
{Comment: this is not OK. Your cold- control pressure should be about 1.5 bar. By now running the fuel through the warm-up regulator the gauge should have shown a drop from what you measured as system pressure.}

Test 3 for warm control-pressure: (a) The plug to the warm-up regulator was reconnected (so that the regulator will heat up). (b) The fuel pump was run and the pressure remained at 5 bar.
{Comment: this is not OK. The pressure should have slowly risen to about 3.6 bar over a period of two minutes.}

Normally if the pressure does not rise from the cold-control pressure reading to higher warm-control pressure reading, you would check for restrictions in the fuel return line (assuming your supply voltage to the warm-up regulator was 11.5 volts which you said it was). But you should have started from a much lower cold-control pressure. Had you done so and if the return line was clear, the warm-up regulator would definitely be faulty.

But before replacing the warm-up regulator, you need to see if you can clear up the restriction preventing fuel from passing though the warm-up regulator.

[jdub]

fired right up after sitting all night

must've been the inner screens in the WUR, which i missed the first time ihad pulled it . i only had cleaned the one i could see the first time.

or maybe a sealed up leakage inside the cylinder part if it after i conditioned it. ?

or, a better connection somewhere in the plugs or grounds after messing aroud so much

or all of the above

Anyone need a new set of valve stem seals? $20.hasn't smoked since the a/f lean for emissions

😎
thanks for those who helped! now i can get to some more fun needs on it.
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81 924 non-turbo

[ThomasJoseph315]

[larchie]