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Alternator replaced but battery is still not charging?

 
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Swakefield  



Joined: 23 Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:03 am    Post subject: Alternator replaced but battery is still not charging? Reply with quote

Just like the title says. Old battery wasnt charging. Car sat over the winter, battery froze into a solid block of ice. Spring came, i pulled the battery and brought it to work and put it on the shop charger for a few hours. Still putting out over 550 CCA. Put in a new alternator tonight and while running, a voltmeter is reading 11.9 Volts at both the battery and alternator.

HELP PLEASE I want to make this a daily driver for the summer!

Oh also my wipers wont shut off. Not as important but if you have any advice lemme know xD
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please post what year you have from now on so we don't have to look it up. Thanks.

I have gotten my share of new "dud" alternators, that is a possibility. Next up is the voltage regulator, are you using the same one?
You should also check that it is hooked up correctly, the belt isn't slipping, the wiring is good and the connections are clean.
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Swakefield  



Joined: 23 Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new alternator came with a new regulator already on it, I took a wire brush to the wire terminal ends before re-attaching them, and im REALLY hoping its not a dud. Someone said it could be the battery? Although i would think it would still measure at 13+ volts even with a bad battery?
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musicalannette  



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 413
Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont have a wiring diagram available, im sorry, but whats your voltage engine stopped, then engine running?

if you battery is charged, it should read around 12.5 volts, (across the battery with a meter) dont trust the meter in the dash.

when you turn on the ignition the red charge light should come on.

when you start the car the charge light should go off.

then check the voltage again with the engine running and the light off, again with a hand held meter (dmm/dvm) or better still an avo, it should read around 14 volts.


when you have identified the voltage just make sure your cars voltmeter reads the same, voltage losses are common i think,, this might be your problem?

if the charge light is out and the voltage is low then the regulator is probably shot, just check the alternator brushes are good first. i think if you want to replace the alternator SEV Marchel manufacture a brushless alternator just a case of getting the right lugs/fittings.
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Last edited by musicalannette on Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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michaelodonnell123  



Joined: 20 Mar 2015
Posts: 235
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wipers that do not turn off can be a couple of things:

Make sure that the stalk is in the OFF position first. The off position is the second click from the bottom. Move the stalk to the last position downwards and then move it one click upwards. That is OFF.

1. Bad wiper relay. The relay is under the drivers side dash [above the fuse block] It is possible that is is not working anymore like it should and needs to be replaced. I attached a pic of it here.
Sometimes a whack to it can bring it back to life as well. It's a $35 part.

2. The wiper stalk on the steering column might have some bad contacts that need to be adjust or even broken. You can remove the steering wheel to get at it and see if it needs to be adjusted or replaced.
Try cycling a few times aggressively up and down with the stalk and see if that fixes it.

You can disconnect the power to the wiper motor [I believe its a wire under the hood in front of the drivers side meanwhile, or pull the relay out. To stop the wipers until you get them fixed.







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musicalannette  



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 413
Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i cant check on here for a while, but also, remove the terminals to the car.

check the voltage again.

then connect the battery and see if it drops alot.

if there is 0.5v/1v drop, then you might have a faulty battery (high internal resisitance or low charge capacity), or you might have a large load(the car has a fault), so i would then remove the contacts and then connect the battery to the car through a ammeter, check for less than 1 amp with the ignition off (and making sure your interior lights and bonnet light isnt on)and probably around less than 10/20 amps igniation on.

]hope this helps
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Last edited by musicalannette on Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swakefield wrote:
The new alternator came with a new regulator already on it, I took a wire brush to the wire terminal ends before re-attaching them, and im REALLY hoping its not a dud. Someone said it could be the battery? Although i would think it would still measure at 13+ volts even with a bad battery?


Did you not change the battery? By "Old battery" I read it as meaning you did.
You can check output voltage of the alternator with the battery - disconnected.
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Swakefield  



Joined: 23 Dec 2014
Posts: 6
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct I used the old battery that froze. After charging it seemed in good shape. Ill try all these suggestions in the morning at work and report back. Thanks gentlemen!
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musicalannette  



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
Posts: 413
Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tbh, i would be carfull about disconnect the battery with the engine running, especially if the alternator is outputting into any sort of load (charging the battery), once the battery is removed the excess energy in the alternator has no load to damp the output, the resulting spike will blow the regulator and or components in the alternator.

BE CAREFULL DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the charge light on the dash working? Bad bulb or wiring fault in exciter circuit = no charge.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the alternator to block ground wire properly installed?
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, in rereading your 1st post, I don't think you did the test properly.
Why do you believe there is a problem? Does the battery drain & the car die?

To test the alternator properly, you need to check the voltage at the battery with the car off (should be a slight increase) then recheck with the car running at idle and at 2000rpm (should be 13.5-14.5 volts @2000rpm). Output at idle can & will be very low. The voltage light may stay on or flicker if the idle is set too low.

You can check voltage drops & do load tests but the above is the first step.

I personally am not concerned with removing the negative while running if its my only means of testing because the output at idle is so low but if you're not comfortable, don't do it.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trust me, don't remove either battery wire while the motor is running, the alternator even at idle makes considerable current.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Trust me, don't remove either battery wire while the motor is running, the alternator even at idle makes considerable current.

+1. Not only is this dangerous, it will almost certainly wipe out the voltage regulator in the process.

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Is the charge light on the dash working? Bad bulb or wiring fault in exciter circuit = no charge.

+1. CHECK THIS FIRST.
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