924Board.org

[RobertN]

Hi Guys, just new to the forum. starter motor trouble on 84 924 n/a 2.0, turning slowly and pulling battery down to 8v!! Just wondering if anyone can help me get at the wires on my starter motor without having to take the starter out? ( garage floor job!! ) I can see them from underneath that the small wire is stripped bare to reveal the conductor and its corroded.
Thanks, Robert.

[fiat22turbo]

Pull the various heatshields off, the oil filter and maybe the alternator or at least the cooling shroud. Worst case you'll have to yank the exhaust manifold and downpipe.

Helps to pull the large battery wire out and out of the way to get to the smaller wire.

Since the wiring is damaged, I'd pull the starter and the alternator and replace the entire harness from the battery to the alternator. Makes connecting the wiring easier when they are out of the car.

I've rebuilt the entire bottom of my car, including the torque tube and pulling the motor several times in my garage with just jack stands, basic tools and an engine hoist. You can do this.
_________________
Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

[RobertN]

Thanks Stefan and of course for your confidence in me!!
I hope to do this tomorrow but want to avoid dropping the exhaust or at least the 2-4 section from underneath! if I can get at the starter bolts/nuts from under the manifold I would wrestle it!! but I cant see the top starter nut at all! I have the alternator removed as I was getting 12.9v at battery when it did start the other day so may be voltage regulator or bad alt!!
what are your thoughts.
p.s just bought the car a week ago and haven't driven her yet, quite frustrated!!

[RobertN]

Hi Stefan, you made me think more towards the manifold removal thanks, which will save my already sore neck from getting worse!! I will remove the manifold,4-2 section and pull it free and hope that I can do a jump test on the starter if I can see the wires that is?? would that work or is it a bigger job than dropping the 2-1 section underneath??

[daniel]

Might be obvious but, make sure you remove the positive battery terminal before starting work
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

[RobertN]

Thanks Daniel, good point don't want to become my own ignition switch!!!
Can anyone advise if its easier to remove manifold and down pipe to get at starter and wires or wrestle the 2 section along with the rest of the exhaust underneath??
Cheers.

[Raize]

Just take the 2 section out. You can put it back using exhaust putty. It's really not a big deal. Taking the manifold off is too risky - you might break a stud and then you are ####.

All the heat shields have to come off - this is more irritating and awkward than actually difficult.

And yes. Disconnect the battery. That big wire to the starter is always live. If you don't disconnect the battery, awful things WILL happen.

[RobertN]

Thanks Raize battery completely disconnected positive & neg. I have managed to remove the 2 studs from starter motor but I can't jiggle it free it seems stuck. Need to get my hands around it better. Do I need to un-hook the entire exhaust system from the 2 section to the back box?
I gave picture, can I send to you?
Cheers

[Raize]

Remove the whole 2-1 part of the exhaust system for best access. It goes back together easily enough.

The starter will jiggle free eventually. Because of the shape of the gears, you have to twist it a bit as well as pull it out.

I use imgur to upload pictures.

[RobertN]

Hey Raize, dropped exhaust, not that difficult!! Got heat shield off but could not get at the top bolt on shroud, so just "gently" pushed it to the right!!! and grabbed starter and twisted and pulled it free... YES!!! Success at last!
The offending article is out!! The wiring is bad and botched to say the least. Wire going to starter is corroded bare, probably shorting out on the shroud!! and the 2 smaller ones are hanging by 3 strands and a push in spade connector was used to join one of them ( some moron temporary job! )well worth the effort to see this!! so I will give it to auto spark to check solenoid etc and hopefully I will actually be able to drive my Porsche for the first time!!!!
Thanks guys for all your advice.
_________________
Robert.
Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.

[RobertN]

Hey guys, got the starter back refurbed, new brushes and new wiring to the connector. Alternator on and belt tightened. Turned the key and NOTHING!! What's going on?? All electrics working but when I turn the key to ignition lights on dash I'm not hearing the fuel pump, should I hear something? Please help I'm really frustrated?
Cheers
Robert.
_________________
Robert.
Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.

[jason c]

So you changed to power wire from the battery to the starter (large lug)?
Have you checked the small connector for power when cranking? If you have power to both, you have a main ground issue of bad starter. If you have nothing to the small connector, you need to test the ignition switch & wiring to the starter.

[RobertN]

Hi Jason, yes main wiring all new to connector, alternator and battery. I haven't checked power to connector yet, but I don't even get a crank its like there is nothing there!! All other electrics work. Would I have jammed the starter to the flywheel??? ill test connector later and maybe jump lead from battery negative to engine just in case of the bad ground as you suggest. will let you know.
thanks...
_________________
Robert.
Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.

[jason c]

The starter always has voltage to the large lug. The small wire supplies 12v via the ignition switch when it is in the crank position. So, to test the system properly you have to check that the battery is OK, for voltage at the starter large lug and for voltage at the small connector while the ignition switch is in the crank position. If all of that checks out, you either have a bad starter or a poor grounding circuit.
Knowing what you've done so far, the problem is likely the ignition switch. Checking for power at the starter while cranking tests the switch & wiring at the same time. If you find no power to the starter while cranking, test the output of the switch- this will isolate the wiring. You could also do a continuity test. If no power is found out of the switch, test the power supply to the switch- if there is supply, the switch is bad. If the is no power to the switch, you'll have to move further up the line.
Electrical components are not hard to test when you break them down, its either the power, ground or device.

[RobertN]

Hi Jason, can I test the starter by supplying a direct 12v from battery to the connector wire? or is that too dangerous?
_________________
Robert.
Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.