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Bonnet colour fade
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 3:58 am    Post subject: Bonnet colour fade Reply with quote

Hi guys, detailed the bonnet today with renovator and Meguiars ultimate compound. Good job as it was quite badly oxidised and looking quite pink! Colour very close to matching the wings now, so quite pleased, just need to do the drivers door next. Must have been sitting a while in direct sunlight in a previous life! Any suggestions as to what I do next to protect the colour?? Should I clear coat and then wax??
Cheers.
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Porsche 924 N/A 1984.
Electrical Engineering Sales to Control panel builders.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: Bonnet colour fade Reply with quote

RobertN wrote:
Hi guys, detailed the bonnet today with renovator and Meguiars ultimate compound. Good job as it was quite badly oxidised and looking quite pink! Colour very close to matching the wings now, so quite pleased, just need to do the drivers door next. Must have been sitting a while in direct sunlight in a previous life! Any suggestions as to what I do next to protect the colour?? Should I clear coat and then wax??
Cheers.


Please define "clear coat", do you mean a wipe on/off system or actual paint?
I don't care much for the wipe on/off clear coats.
You can paint a clearoat over your single stage but every imperfection will be essentially buried under glass & magnified. You would have to prep the surface like you would for a repaint.

Depending on how happy you are with the finish, you might want to do a light color sand with 3000 grit to take the oxidation off (maybe a little coarser if the oxidation is heavy) & the buff & polish the car.

When your satisfied with the finish, use a sealer & glaze followed by a coat of wax.
There are several types of products to hide swirls, seal the finish, add shine & protection, etc. I usually do my paint protection in 3 steps. Sealer/glaze, polish & wax.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 861
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Ultimate compound your using is the consumer version of 105 Compound. I would recommend staying withing the Meguiar's products to avoid guess work at this point. Switching to another product may or may not remove the fine scratches left behind by the compound and you will not achieve the desired results.

Follow compounding with ultimate polish, which is the consumer version of 205. This should fully restore your gloss. However, if the paint has lost too much pigment over the years the color might not fully return. In which case you might have a professional look at it and decide whether their products can help. Sometimes if there is enough paint there they can compound the top layer off and bring the paint it back to life.

Consumer products like Ultimate compound cannot remove even 3000 grit sand scratches, so don't try. Professionals have compounds that can remove 1000 grit sandpaper scratches allowing them to wipe off even heaviest oxidization by hand.

As far as protection goes, be sure to wax the car with Ultimate wax or NXT every few months. This will prevent oxidization from returning.

Like most consumer products, both Ultimate and NXT are cleaner waxes with detergents, so they will remove any sealer put on beforehand. However, they have one built-in that works pretty well.

I hope that helps!
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michaelodonnell123  



Joined: 20 Mar 2015
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suspect that no matter how much compounding & waxing you are doing...the paint might look good for a day or two and then its going right back to a pinkish color. A respray of the bonnet might be in order. Between the sun and the heat of the engine- the bonnet takes a beating. Nothing wrong with a respray to bring it back to red again.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 861
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

michaelodonnell123 wrote:
I suspect that no matter how much compounding & waxing you are doing...the paint might look good for a day or two and then its going right back to a pinkish color. A respray of the bonnet might be in order. Between the sun and the heat of the engine- the bonnet takes a beating. Nothing wrong with a respray to bring it back to red again.


Consumer grade products are meant to be safe for the average person so they can't damage their paint, even when working on the thinnest clearcoats. You could probably run a DA on your hood all day with Ultimate compound and never remove even 3000 grit sand paper scratches.

That said, a professional detailer has products that will easily restore the paint by removing the layer damaged by UV.

Considering 3M perfect-it system is $200 for just the products alone, (that's not even pads and machine) so it makes sense to hire someone for a fraction of that cost that knows what they're doing.

I hope that helps!
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Last edited by edredas on Mon Jul 13, 2015 7:13 am; edited 2 times in total
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, gives me a lot to think about. The pinkish colour is all but gone, so I was looking to "protect" the paint now from this unpredictable Northern Ireland weather!!! I'll have a go at ultimate polish and then wax to see how that goes, then table the drivers door!
Also notice water spots on roof!! Can anyone recommend a fix! Seen on YouTube a guy using distilled white vinegar??
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobertN wrote:
Thanks guys, gives me a lot to think about. The pinkish colour is all but gone, so I was looking to "protect" the paint.....


Use a sealer/glaze & follow up with wax.


RobertN wrote:
Also notice water spots on roof!! Can anyone recommend a fix!


That's what the ultimate is for, not for cutting.

Don't waste your money on the 3m stuff either, there's much better products out there.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 861
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
Use a sealer/glaze & follow up with wax.


Which wax? Where should he buy it?

Almost all consumer waxes sold in are "cleaner waxes" with detergents that will remove sealers and glazes? If he uses one of these waxes he has wasted his time with this step. I have a $200 wax that won't strip it, but I doubt he wants something like that.

Also, waxes like Ulitmate wax and NXT have sealers built in that work fine for this purpose.


jason c wrote:
Don't waste your money on the 3m stuff either, there's much better products out there.


Which product is better? How is it better? And where can we buy it?

Trolling again, I see.

Robert, it is my recommendation at this point that you seek a professional assistance, they will save your paint and in the long run it will be cheaper.
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'86 944 -Garnet, Fully loaded, Koni suspension
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edredas wrote:
Which wax? Where should he buy it?


Since he's already removed the oxidation, he only needs a finish wax (after sealer)not a cleaner wax. Product depends on budget. He could use an all-in-one sealer/wax if he wants. I don't live in Ireland so I'm not familiar with their distribution system.

edredas wrote:
Almost all consumer waxes sold in are "cleaner waxes"


Not true. Pure b.s.


edredas wrote:
Which product is better? How is it better? And where can we buy it?


I use farecla but there are others too. Finess-it is garbage. It takes more product, more time & doesn't cut as well.

edredas wrote:
Trolling again, I see.


You are the definition of a troll, he asked a question & I answered it.....first.
Did you not get enough last time? For those of you who dont realize what a d.b. ed is......http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=41144

edredas wrote:
Robert, it is my recommendation at this point that you seek a professional assistance, they will save your paint and in the long run it will be cheaper.


Excellent idea now that you've done the hard work, have someone wax it for you.
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not looking the best finish in the world, but hate the red fade which I see a lot on red cars, makes them look "neglected" Was thinking of clear coat spray, but I don't think I'll do that now, as there are a number of tiny ships on the bonnet which needs touch up. Would the ultimate compound remove the water spot on roof and should I just do it by hand or my DA?
I have good old turtle wax, should be okay I think and it smells good!! LOL
We have Meguairs, Autoglym and Farecla G3 in my local Halfords.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recommended reading with pix:
Cheaper than a new paint job
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobertN wrote:
Not looking the best finish in the world, but hate the red fade which I see a lot on red cars, makes them look "neglected" Was thinking of clear coat spray, but I don't think I'll do that now, as there are a number of tiny ships on the bonnet which needs touch up. Would the ultimate compound remove the water spot on roof and should I just do it by hand or my DA?
I have good old turtle wax, should be okay I think and it smells good!! LOL
We have Meguairs, Autoglym and Farecla G3 in my local Halfords.


The ultimate will work fine with a d.a. (it depends on how bad they are), you'll probably wear your elbow out trying by hand.
The better the wax, the longer it will last & the better it will look.

Its difficult to tell you exactly what to use because I can't see it. You can use a 3000 trizact disc to remove the dead paint if the oxidation is too heavy or the surface isn't smooth.
There's several farecla products & combinations, what you should use depends on how the surface is & what you're trying to do to it.
The G3 is great. You can use it with the white foam pad or the wool one if you need to cut more. Follow the G3 with G10 using the black pad. You'll want to use a rotary or d.a. buffer like the Flex, a d.a. sander won't have enough power.
Polishing the oxidized paint will bring the shine back but leave a rough surface.
You should also use some clay before you start to remove any dirt or debris from the surface to keep it from scratching the surface as you buff & polish.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 861
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jason, I try not to be D.B. but if you want to post utter B.S. go to rennlist. You were posting stuff in that thread that even a book I had never even seen before said were "beginner mistakes". Yet you claim to be some kind of expert with years of experience.

You didn't answer him since Ultimate compound won't remove water spots that are often etched into these softer finishes. The only way to remove them is with a heavy compound which cost more than getting a detail.
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'84 944 -Red, Automatic
'86 944 -Garnet, Fully loaded, Koni suspension
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

edredas wrote:
Jason, I try not to be D.B. but if you want to post utter B.S. go to rennlist. You were posting stuff in that thread that even a book I had never even seen before said were "beginner mistakes". Yet you claim to be some kind of expert with years of experience.

You didn't answer him since Ultimate compound won't remove water spots that are often etched into these softer finishes. The only way to remove them is with a heavy compound which cost more than getting a detail.


I did answer him. I said the ultimate works with a d.a. when he asked if he could use it with a d.a. or by hand. I also said it depends on how bad the spots were. I havent seen the car, I can't guarentee it. I also said what I would use & how if I were doing it when you asked. Maybe I should have told him to read the can like you do.

If you can prove I make "beginner mistakes", why didn't you instead of hiding under a rock until you decided to try to redeem yourself in a wax thread?

I know what I'm doing & my customers are happy with my work. One recently said bringing me his car was " the best decision he ever made", that's all that matters.
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RobertN  



Joined: 19 Apr 2015
Posts: 142
Location: Lisburn Co Antrim

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2015 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried ultimate again, but no luck removing the water spots. Looks like they are well buried under the clear, that's if clear coat is actually on the car! Wondering if previous owner had left car in bad weather and as the sun has taken its toll, so has the acid rain, Edredas think a professional call might be in order as you said as the colour isn't fully restored, but close! I have to do my drivers door as it has faded due to sun, but don't see the water spots. Might use 3000 wet&dry and then ultimate compound and ultimate wax, would that be advisable just to get some colour back??
My foam heat protection backing has completely been removed from under the hood, would that not help the paint?
Cheers.
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