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[GalironR]

I finally got the head off the block I'm fairly sure its hosed. Attached are the images of the head and the cylinders. Some of the images are with the head straight off the red ones must be trans fluid the prior owner poured into them 2 had the red fluid and a gray/brownish goo under it 1 was entirely dry another had a little anti freeze in it I assume it for in when I was first messing with the head trying to get it free. Even with the head off I get zero movement with a breaker bar so I'm assuming the piston rod or the crank is hosed as well. The head doesnt look to bad and the pistons I can see seem ok again from what I can see. So how screwed do you all think this engine is lol









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[daniel]

You may be right that this engine needs to be torn down, but I wouldn't give up just yet. Its highly unlikely that the gudgeon, big end, main bearings are seized based on what you have shown. Oil passages on head block I can see do not look milky so unless it's been run out of oil I wouldn't worry about that.
The challenge now is to free the rings without breaking them. If (and its a big if) you can, you can give them cylinders a hone and it will run (not 100% obviously).

Keep trying to tap around the cylinders, you should now be able to identify if one or both pistons are frozen in place - this will help focus your efforts.
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

[GalironR]

[924RACR]

Actually depending on which are easier to get to for you, it's no problem to take either the bellhousing with the motor or leave it with the torque tube.

Whatever you're reading telling you that you have to take the flywheel bolts off to get the motor out... is very very wrong and should be disregarded as a useful source of information for any further consultation. AI, maybe? About that level of accuracy.

You can't get to the flywheel bolts until you remove the pressure plate and clutch. Which require removing the bellhousing from the motor.

You can't get the bellhousing off the motor until you separate it from the torque tube - 4 bolts and slide the two apart - or directly remove the motor from the bellhousing with the bellhousing staying on the torque tube - which is twice as many bolts, some quite a PITA to get to.

It just slides in on a spline.

I've done both methods within the past month, on two different cars; when removing a motor from the car, I prefer to remove with the bellhousing because I find it easier to get to those 4 bolts on the torque tube than all the different bolts spaced around the bellhousing.

Pro tip for reinstall: run a tap through the 4 bolt holes on the bellhousing that the torque tube attaches to, they are usually pretty cruddy and will be a LOT harder to pull the torque tube and motor together if you don't clean them out.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype